The O Trek - Patagonia, from Paine Grande. Self-guided Hike Through the Mountains of Torres Del Paine, South America
Mar 3
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The O Trek from Paine Grande
In January 2024 we set off for the trip of a lifetime - hiking the O Trek in Patagonia, Torres Del Paine. The whole of the trek plus the viewpoints is 136k, and we did it over 7 days and 6 nights. We spent months planning and preparing for this trip. Upon reaching Chile, our first stop on the journey was Puerto Natales where we stayed for two nights to relax after the flight and make sure we had everything ready for the trek itself - this is a great base for the Trek and there is lots of information and excursions from here. Before setting off, you will want to give yourself some prep time to pack your rucksack, book your bus ticket to the park & to make sure you have snacks and food prepared for the trails - I actually made us sandwiches for the week so we didn't need to worry about lunch every day as we would likely be out hiking. We were lucky that our hotel let us leave our luggage as we had booked to stay there again on the night we got back from the O Trek - most places will allow you to do this, some may ask for a small fee.
This guide contains everything about how we did it. We know that a lot of people start at camp central, but we wanted to mix it up a bit and start at Paine Grande. We wanted to do things this way where we would start off with most of the W trek and finished with the O.
Things to know before you go -
You have got to book into your campsites before arriving
You can get dinner at some campsites but it is not always guaranteed so be prepared
Everyone must walk the same direction on the O trek
You will experience every single weather condition possible so pack accordingly
You should download your park tickets to your phone or print them before entering the park as there is limited signal there and you need to show your tickets
There are shower at most of the campsites - I can't guarantee that they are hot. The queues can be quite long and make sure you take shower shoes
Wi-fi is available at most camps - some camps are paid and some are free. Again it is not guaranteed to be any good.
A list of the campsites we stayed at -
The total cost of our park entrance fees and campsite bookings for the trip was - $823/£652.
I have numbered and highlighted the camps we stayed at in order in red on the map just for your information , although there are some other camps you can book into along the way to break down the longer days.
You absolutely must book all your campsites before arrival or they wont let you in the park. We used Torres Hike to do this as it made it simpler to book all the different campsites without going into the different companies booking systems. We thought we booked pretty far in advance but it turns out we were actually late as there were only certain options available at some sites.
We had planned to rent tents at each of the campsites there, but at some sites they only had premium left so we had to take that - turns out that was actually quite lovely and they were tent boxes in the trees. If we were to do it again I'd probably try to book all premium for the comfort an ease at the end of the day.
If you prefer, and are a bit more sociable than us, there are also Refugio's at most stops that you can book into.
Now, there are supposed to some mini markets and groceries on some of the camps but I'd use that term loosely and wouldn't rely on them too much as some were pretty limited, great for grabbing biscuits and snacks but very limited on things you could make a substantial meal from. The pictures are from one of the more well stocked shops and as you can see you would still be rather limited.
The further you got from the W trek the harder it got to source food from the shops. But, thankfully if you plan ahead all of the campsites have dining facilities where they will feed you your dinner - we didn't book ahead for any of these but we ended up doing some dinners last minute as it actually was pretty good value and a good feed.
Refugio & Camp Cuernos - premium tent, groceries, WiFi, showers, food available if you book ahead
Torres Central & North - premium tent, snacks only from shop, restaurant here - booked in for dinner and 3 course, well fed. Good vibes here
Camp Serron - premium tent, possible puma sightings around this camp. There is supposed to be a minimarket here? We could not find it
Refugio & Camping Dickson - standard tent, groceries here but very limited
Camp Los Perros - standard tent. There really is nothing here, if you want dinner you must book it in advance. They can't even give you water to cook noodles. Everyone MUST leave the campsite by 6am
Refugio & Campsite Grey - standard tent, restaurant, groceries & activities. Very well equipped & much busier as you are back on the W.
* When it says supermarket & groceries on the camp information - take that lightly as it is very limited, not always stocked and tends to be mainly noodles or sometimes tinned fish. I'd definitely recommend trying to prepare as much as you can before entering the park and using this as a back up not a reliance.
Useful maps & routes (for 30% off Alltrails+ click here)
Paine Grande to Cuernos (including trek to Mirador Britanico)
Los Perros to Grey - there are two sections to this as people often stop at the earlier camp
Part 1 - Los Perros to Camp Paso Part 2 - Camp Paso to Grey
Base Las Torres (towers for sunrise)
Day 1 – Puerto Natales to Camp Cuernos
Total Distance – 25k Paine Grande to Cuernos - 14.5k 5h Hike to Mirador Britanico and back 10k
- bus from Puerto Natales to Pudeto
- ferry across the lake into the park to Paine Grande (ticket bought on boat)
- viewpoints Frances & Britanico
We set off from our hotel Puerto Natales at 6am to ensure we had plenty time to reach the bus station and be on board the bus by 7am. The bus initially stops at Amargo gate where you must get off to show your park documents - I'd recommend downloading them to your phone ahead of this as there is no signal here and intermittent wi-fi. After this the journey continues on to Pudeto, soon the breath-taking mountain landscape will come into view.
As we waited to board the ferry we grabbed some lunch from the café there and stood admiring the lake and in awe of the mountains that await us. One lesson I have learned from this trip is that the ferries very much run to their own time schedule.
We entered the park and arrived at Camp Grande at around 11.30am and immediately set off for our first point of the day - camp Italiano. It may have been because of the excitement but we made it here in only 2 hours. From this point, you can opt to hike up to the Mirador Britanico, which I would definitely recommend as the view is incredible. To allow us to move more efficiently we left our bags at Italiano at the old camp base. As you ascend through Valle Frances, you are treated to incredible views and get your first glimpse of a glacier upon the mountains. We stopped to admire this for a while, wondering if any of the ice would break off and crash to the ground. By the time we reached camp Cuernos, we had hiked 16 miles, and it was starting to take its toll, feeling much longer due to carrying such big bags. We realised that this was an ambitious first day, but we knew our fitness and just wanted to push on. Some people choose to stay at Frances to shorten the journey. When we booked our camping, only the premium tents were available - these were like large tent boxes nestled amongst the woods, which turned out to be a blessing because the wind this night was fierce. It felt much safer to be in a sturdy tent sheltered by the trees than out in the open. The next morning, we saw someone who's tent had been destroyed by the winds. Overall an exciting and action packed first day.
Day 2 – Camp Cuernos to Torres Central
11.6k – 4.5h
After a long day yesterday we treated ourselves this morning and slept in a bit, knowing we had a shorter day of hiking ahead of us. We then walked on to Torres Central. It was a really hot day today, but it was a pretty short trail. We met some friendly Americans on the trail who were coming to the end of their trek, it was great to hear all their stories and tips. Along the trail there were cool little rope bridges enabling you to cross the rivers.
Upon reaching Torres Central, we found it much livelier than the previous camp. This seems to be the main starting and ending point for the W trek and the point of entry for most day trips into the park. We enjoyed lunch in the sunshine at the restaurant - quesadillas and chips instead of the squashed sandwiches in our bag. There were stunning views of Monte Almirante Nieto from there, a stunning mountain that we actually looked into climbing whilst we were there, but the wind had other plans. The restaurant here had really good tunes playing and it was good vibes, so we naturally ended up drinking pisco sours in the sun. We decided to book in for dinner there, which was delicious – pumpkin soup, chicken and quinoa & a white chocolate mousse for dessert.
Day 3 - Central Torres to Seron & Mirador Las Torres for sunrise
Central to Seron 13k - 4 hours
Base Las Torres 20k - 8 hours
Total for the day - 33k
We set our alarm to wake up in the middle of the night and set off to catch the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres. The path up was pretty straightforward in the dark, but make sure you have a good head torch with you as there are a few bits through the trees. During the last push to the view point, we somehow managed to stray from the path (which was really obvious - I blame the tiredness) and ended up scrambling up the rocks, which was actually quite fun. If you time it right, the mountain's face glows orange in the first light of the day - this was remarkable witness. We were certainly lucky because as soon as the sunrise show was over, the clouds rolled in and it rained for the rest of the day. I felt really sorry for the people coming up after us, as it was dull and rainy, and there probably weren't very good views at the top.
After returning to camp, we took a quick nap before continuing on to our next destination - our campsite at Seron. Just as we were leaving Torres Central, two pumas crossed right in front of our path, we were incredibly lucky to witness such magnificent creatures up close.
The hike to Seron was quite soggy and uneventful due to the constant rain. This was our first experience of the O Trek, and became noticeable as there were significantly fewer people around.
Our tent at Camp Seron was up a hill, which gave us stunning views. We were able to have dinner here too in the small dining room - I actually really enjoyed the dinners as it gave you a chance to chat to other people who were doing the same route as you.
Day 4 - Seron to Dickson
18k – 6 hours
This hike offered my favourite views on the trail so far (excluding the viewpoint excursions). Upon reaching the pass, you can see the mountainous landscape directly ahead. It was extremely windy, and I actually did see a few people get blown over. You must do a check in with the park guards halfway along the route, where they will review your paperwork. The second part of the hike is pretty flat, with boardwalks leading you over the wet boggy areas. After one final push up onto the hillside, you can spot your campsite in the distance - but the descent to get there is pretty steep.
From the camp, if you want to explore a bit more, you can set out to find the gravel beach at the back of the camp, which offers stunning views of the alpine water and mountains. This was our first night sleeping on the ground in a tent, and it was much colder than I had anticipated, so I ended up renting a thick sleeping mat from the reception.
Day 5 - Dickson to Los Peros
11.8k – 4.5h
When we awoke at Camp Dickson, we were fortunate to witness the mountain rescue helicopter coming in to land at our camp for some training - an exhilarating start the day. This section of the route was a pleasant, gentle walk through a woodland area. On the approach to the next campsite, you'll see an alpine lake with a glacier flowing into it - this was the perfect place to stop for a rest. I honestly wouldn't hurry to reach this camp, as there's not much to see or do. The camping area is quite cramped and hidden away in the woods. You can have dinner here, but nothing else, and if you haven't booked it in advance then you're out of luck - speaking from experience. Although we didn't actually want dinner, just some hot water to make our noodles we had bought from the previous camp, but even that was a challenge. We managed to charm the woman at the ranger hut into popping the kettle on for us and helping us out - legend! Everyone HAD to leave camp by 6am to cross the John Garner pass, so we turned in for an early night. We didn't sleep very well as it was really quite windy in the woods but we got enough rest to prepare us for the big day ahead the following day.
Day 6 - Los Peros to Grey
15k – 11 hours
John Garner Pass
Suspension bridges x 3
First views of the Glacier
I awoke feeling quite drowsy from a rubbish sleep due to the wind and the noise from others getting ready to leave camp for the day. We set off up the mountain at a good pace, passing many hikers who had started before us. We knew it would be a pretty long day; although the distance wasn't great there was a steep ascent and descent. The climb to the top of Garners Pass wasn't too difficult; we managed in good time. Once you reach the top, you get your first glimpse of Glacier Grey, which was magnificent. I've been fortunate enough to see a glacier before but not one this impressive. It remained in view for the rest of the journey, making the descent more enjoyable. If you looked closely, you could see tiny figures walking on it - little did we know that we would be those people the next day. There are also three suspension bridges to cross on the way to Camp Grey. Some of these are pretty daunting as they are very high off the ground, crossing deep ravines, and by early afternoon, the wind picks up significantly causing them to sway slightly - which can be quite frightening. Upon reaching Camp Grey, you have re-joined the W trail, so things begin to get much livelier again and there are more facilities. We sniffed out an activities centre nearby to check if it was possible to kayak to the glacier the following morning. This wasn't available due to the weather but we were offered ice trekking on the glacier instead. We were lucky to snag a last minute space, but I would definitely recommend booking to ensure you get the chance. We also went on a bit of a side quest after reaching the camp to visit the bay on Lago Grey, where you could see the icebergs that had broken off from the glacier up close; some of these were huge.
Day 7 - Camp Grey to Paine Grande
11k – 3.5 hours
The end of the O Trek
Big foot excursions ice trek on the glacier - 5 hours £170/ $225
Last ferry back to Podeto
Bus return to Puerto Natales - 7pm
On our final day of the O Trek, I felt quite sad it was coming to an end, though my body was looking forward to a proper shower and comfortable bed. We got up early to hike on the glacier with Big Foot Excursions. The tour group provided us with crampons for safely walking on the ice, and we were able to leave out backpacks at their office, taking only what was necessary for the morning. This adventure lasted about three hours and was incredible. We took a boat to the excursion's starting point, which was thrilling because there was always the possibility that huge chunks of ice could break free from the glacier and crash into the water creating massive waves. During the trek, we walked across the glacier, explored inside an ice cave, and peered over the edge into one of the crevasses. This was a thrilling experience and a great way to fill our last morning here.
The second half on the day and the trek to Paine Grande was longer than anticipated and so so windy. I don't think I've ever been anywhere in my life that is as windy as Patagonia and I live in Scotland so that's saying something. You have great views of Lago Grey on the walk.
We had some downtime time to chill at the restaurant/bar at Paine Grande, where we indulged in one too many pisco sours to celebrate our accomplishments (we celebrated with these quite frequently during the trek as well). The ferry to return back to Pudeto was late (surprise surprise) and very crowded. The bus journey back felt long as we were tired from the thrilling days in the park. As soon as we reached Puerto Natales we headed straight to the nearest bar to eat our own body weight in food and beers - it was well deserved.
We did it!
We completed the O Trek. What an incredible journey overall in the most beautiful part of the world. If you ever get the chance to embark on this wonderful trip then you absolutely should do it! If you have any questions or comments leave them below - I hope you have enjoyed reading about our version of the O Trek. Feel free to read more about my South American Adventures here.
