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- Top things To Do in Fife - A List of Fun & Exciting Things To Do on Your Visit to Fife
If you are looking for something to do to spend the day in Fife then look no further. I am compiling a list of all the top things and fun activities I've done whilst living in Fife. This list will be forever growing and I look forward to sharing it with you as I uncover more activities/places that deserve a mention. If you have any suggestions of other exciting places I should visit or any questions, then feel free to drop a comment. Contents: (click to skip to section) Elie Chain Walk Dunino Den Maiden Rock & Kinkell Cave Caiplie Caves Cambo Estate Bowbridge Alpacas Viking Heat Retreat Maspie Den Buddo Rock & Boarhills Bunker Scottish Witch Trial Museum The famous Anstruther Chippies Elie Chain Walk Where - Elie Price - Free Parking - Free beside golf course Discover one of Scotland's best kept coastal secrets. This thrilling walk will have you scaling up cliff edges with the aid of metal chains. The entire route is half a kilometre in length, requiring a good level of fitness and a head for heights. You don't need to be an expert climber as there are sturdy footholds and the rock is quite grippy - ideally, tackle this on a dry day to prevent slips. Begin the route by heading to Earlsferry High street and continue to the golf club where you will find parking. A short walk along the beach towards the cliffs will lead you to the sign indicating the start of the chain walk. You'll encounter 8 chains positioned either vertically or horizontally across the cliffs. Once you reach the end, you can choose to walk back via the cliffs or do the chain walk in reverse to head back to where you started. Top tips check the tides before you go and go on a low tide wear sturdy footwear try to keep the chain between your legs where possible give yourself one or two hours to complete the route let someone know where you are going Dunino Den Where - Dunino, Fife Price - Free Parking - church carpark An ancient druid site of worship and sacrifice awaits you. Park in the church, and you'll find the entrance to the den just a short walk through the woods and down a set of pretty steep stairs - proceed with care. If you are unable to access via the stairs, you can easily walk past the church and enter from the other side. There is a well at the top of the stairs which is said to have been used for human sacrifice by the ancient druids, although it may be just a natural wonder. Once down in the den you can marvel at the carvings on the cliff face by worshippers - although it is debatable how old these carvings actually are and may be from the modern day. Offerings are still left here today, hanging from the trees and tucked into the cliffs. The area is seen by some as a gateway to the other world. This place is truly peaceful and possesses a magical quality that captivates visitors. Maiden Rock & Kinkell Cave Where - St Andrews Coastal Path Price - Free Parking - East Sands Maiden rock is a very popular spot for rock climbers and boulderers. If that's not your thing, then it is still worth taking the scenic coastal walk from St Andrews towards Crail, where after around 15 minutes you will find this impressive rock formation standing tall against the backdrop of the North Sea. There's a lovely beach here to enjoy the views. Further down the coastal path, an exciting cave lies hidden away amongst the rocks, was this a secret smugglers cave back in the day? A hermits hideaway? Who knows, but today it is nothing more than an exciting place to explore. You will find the cave close to a beach cove between Maiden Rock and the Rock and Spindle, where you will notice a slightly rugged path on the hillside. There's a rope dangling down to help you climb up to the cave's entrance, which is not visible from the ground. The cave itself is around 15 feet long and 80 feet wide and even on a sunny day you can immediately feel the cold and dampness of the overgrown moss on the walls. A cool and exciting place to explore, also providing you a sense of achievement from finding the cave and scaling up the steep hillside. The cave was excavated in 1913 and the findings of bones, tusks and seashells suggests that primitive people would have once occupied this cave. You must take care on the approach to Kinkell Cave as you will need to climb over multiple sets of rocks and they can be slippery and dangerous. Caiplie Caves Where - Near Pittenweem Price - Free Parking - Car park near the caves A cool set of natural rock formations and large caves to explore on the Fife coastal path, with the largest cave at around 10m deep and 5m high. These caves have been around since prehistoric times and archaeologists have found tools, bones and pottery here. You can see carvings on the rocks from monks and pilgrims from way back in the day. With stunning views of the North Sea, this is a great spot for outdoor adventurers with many passages and caves to explore. this makes it perfect for hiking, photography and exploring. Cambo Estate Where - Kingsbarns, Fife Price - £7.50 Parking - On site Cambo Estate is a historically cool spot on the Fife coastline in Scotland. This place is known for its gorgeous gardens, rich wildlife, and tons of outdoor activities that bring in visitors from all over the globe. It’s got a brilliant mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage, making it a one-of-a-kind place to explore. You can walk through the walled gardens where the flowers bloom throughout the year. The birds love to hang out here, and the woods and beachfront are home to many wildlife species too. The estate often runs organized nature walks where you can go wildlife spotting and learn about the plants. Cambo house is the historical Victorian house on the estate dating back to 1881, it is well-preserved and you can tour the grand interiors, decorated with period furnishings and artwork. There are various events and activities throughout the year, like seasonal festivals, workshops, and educational programs. These events often focus on sustainability and conservation, encouraging visitors to connect with nature in meaningful ways. There is a café and shop on site where you can buy freshly grown vegetables, bulbs and gifts. If you visit from Jan-Mar it is the perfect time to see the famous snowdrop festival. Bowbridge Alpacas Where - Peat Inn Price - £25 Parking - Free, on site We spent the afternoon here and it was a brilliant experience. You have the option of booking a one hour trek or two hour, which we opted for. You'll learn all about the alpacas, get to feed them, try some clicker training, and then you are then matched up with your very own furry friend that you can take on a trek and challenge yourself by leading them round an obstacle course. You are given plenty of picture opportunities throughout the day by a photographer on site. Afterwards you get to see the Alpaca fleece and even get the chance to felt your own mini alpaca. This is a great fun day out and suitable for all ages. Viking Heat Retreat Where - Balmalcolm Den Price - £15+ Parking - on site Located at the former muddy boots tie, the Viking Heat retreat is an outdoor haven where you can relax and take part in contrast therapy. The wood-fired sauna is always kept nice and toasty, which is perfect for you to heat up after braving a dip in the ice baths. What I love about this place is that there are lots of baths and pods, so everyone can go in together and support each other. This is one of my favourite spots for hosting wellness retreats. The two women who own the space are lovely, and one is always on hand to guide guests through the cold baths if they have never done it before. There are changing facilities and toilets on site too. Social sessions start at £15 and are at various times throughout the week (check out their social media here ) and you can book private hire of the space for £100 for the hour. Maspie Den Walk & Waterfall Where - Falkland Estate Price - Free Parking - Falkland Estate, Stables A beautiful woodland walk where you can walk behind a waterfall. The route takes you through a glen across wooden bridges, through tunnels and through the woodland until you reach the Yad waterfall that has a path behind it allowing you to stand behind the flowing water. The route can be quite muddy and slippery on a rainy day so take extra care. A wonderful wee walk with helpful signs on boulders assisting you with the way. You won't get much signal around here so be sure to have a copy of the route before setting off. If you are looking for a longer or more of a challenging walk, there are numerous options to extend this by starting from the Pillars of Hercules or taking in the nearby Lomond Hills. Buddo Rock & Boarhills Bunker Where - Fife Coastal Path, near St Andrews Price - Free Parking - Boarhills Town Buddo Rock is a dramatic rock formation on the east coast. You can get here by parking in Boarhills and following the signs for the Fife Coastal Path. The area is full of cool cliffs and stunning scenery which makes it popular with hikers, climbers and nature lovers. Buddo Rock itself stands tall and impressive, and with twisting patterns it gives the impression of something out of this world. If you are feeling brave enough you can climb up onto the top using the footholds in the narrow crack, that have been there since the Victorian ages. But please make sure you are careful and can get back down again. If you continue ten minutes or so along the path you will come across Boarhills Bunker hiding in the side of the cliff. Built around the 1940s, the bunker consists of two wartime pillboxes connected by a short tunnel. A really cool detour from the coastal path to explore a small piece of history. It can be quite spooky inside and be sure to watch out for the rusty metal - a torch would be useful here. The path here provides scenic views of the coast & North Sea but it can be quite slippery if it has been raining. Scottish Witch Trial Museum Where - Leven Price - £10 Parking - Free on Mitchel Street The Scottish Witch Trial Museum was opened by Lenny, a local historian whose ancestors were caught up in the trials and faced a terrible fate. Lenny is an extremely knowledgeable and passionate guide and possesses first hand artefacts from the witch trials that were passed down through his family. The tour lasts around 90 minutes and is equally daunting and informative. As well as learning about the history of the 173 years long witch hunts, you can view a number of torture devices that were used to identify the witches walking amongst us back in the day. Lenny will even trace back your family tree to see if any of your ancestors suffered a perilous fate. I don't want to give away too much information, so I suggest you check it out for yourself. The museum is open from Fri-Mon from 10-6pm an takes walk ins but if you are a big group and looking for a private session then you can message via the social media and book ahead. Visit Award Winning Chip Shops in Anstruther Where - Anstruther, East Fife Price - Varies Parking - Paid car park on street The Anstruther fish bar, an award winning chip shop on the seafront is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area. On sunny days, the queue can often be out the door, a true testament to its quality. You have the option to sit in to eat or to take-away, and there is also a yummy ice cream parlour where you can grab yourself a treat to eat on the waterfront - just watch out for the greedy seagulls. "The Wee Chippy" is just a few doors away and is equally as good in my opinion. Feel free to check out my other blogs about exploring in Scotland .
- Patagonia - exploring Calafate & El Chalten. Top things to do
After our adventure packed trip in Torres Del Paine, completing the O Trek and spending some time horse-riding in the mountains , we had planned to cross the border to continue our adventure on the Argentinian side of Patagonia. We spent time exploring El Calafate and El Chalten and this is how our adventure looked... El Chalten This beautiful little town is found in Los Glacieres National Park. Known as the hiking capital of Argentina, it certainly felt like an adventure lovers playground from the second we arrived. Even the drive from El Calafate was jaw dropping, we had to keep pulling over to take photos of the stunning mountain views. Although a downside to this is you will see an incredible amount of dead guanaco that had been caught up in jumping over the fences. Although all hikes are very well signposted I used Alltrails+ and downloaded the routes just in case (you can never be too careful), I have linked the appropriate routes. You can get 30% off Alltrails here . Laguna Torre & Maestri Lookout A rewarding hiking trail that gives you views of Cerro Solo and Glacier Grande. The hike to Laguna Torre is 11miles (18km) all round and will take around 4 hours, and if you wish to continue further to the Maestri viewpoint, which I would very much recommend, it will be 12.7miles (22km) and take around 6 hours. This is a much shorter and simpler trek then Laguna de los Tres. After about 15 minutes of walking you will reach the first viewpoint giving you panoramic views of the mountains ahead. Upon reaching the moraine you will have the option to trek down to the lagoon or to continue along to ridge to the Maestri viewpoint where you can look down on the Torre Glacier - we did both. If you are lucky with the weather you will be treated to amazing views of the glacier, see bits of icebergs floating in the water and marvel at the iconic Cerro Solo standing tall - something about that mountain blew me away, I would love to climb it one day. Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Sucia The Laguna de los Tres is a lake situated at the bottom of Cerro Fitz Roy, the hike here is one of the most popular hiking trails in Patagonia so prepare for it to be busy but it is sooooo worth it. This 13.7 mile (23km) hike also comes with a 960m elevation gain, almost half of which is done in the last 1km - so you will need to be pretty fit. We decided that we wanted to be at the view point for sunrise in the hopes of seeing the mountains turn orange in the morning glow (and boy did it pay off). There are two ways to do this, one is to leave super early in the morning and time it well and the other is to grab some camping equipment and stay at a campsite at the base of the viewpoint. We opted for the latter and rented everything we needed from a store in town and set off to reach Camp Poincenot before dark. The hike on the way to the campsite was pretty simple, the excitement was building and the views were getting better and better!! The campsite was pretty busy but we found a spot in the woods, went out to gaze at Fitz Roy under the stars and full moon and then settled down to try to get some sleep. From this point were only 2.5km away from Laguna de los Tres but 450m so the mornings hike in the dark was going to be tough - and that it was with the last 1km covering 400m of elevation. Thankfully the route is well pathed and you could take your time. We made it to the viewpoint with plenty of time to spare, waiting for the sunrise was super cold so I would take lots of layers or a bivvy if you can. When the first light came and the mountains started glowing orange I could have cried, in fact I think I maybe did. What a sight!!! This was definitely a bucket list hike for me and one that will stay with me forever. We spent considerable amount of time here and hiked down to the side of the lake. Laguna Sucia Once you have marvelled at the big three - Mt. Fitz Roy, Poincenot and Torre you could take a small side quest to Laguna Sucia a stunning alpine lake and totally worth it, it is bright blue and almost doesn't look real. Laguna Capri We took a small detour on the descent from Laguna de los Tres to stop at Laguna Capri which gave epic views across the lake and to Mount Fitz Roy. It is easy enough to add this to the above hike, but also for people who maybe don't want to hike the full way, this is achievable and still gives big views. The hike to Laguna Capri is 6 miles all round (10km). River Rafting On one of the days where we had hoped to go climbing the wind had other plans(it is terribly windy here so be prepared with a plan B). One of the few activities that was still able to run was river rafting down the Rio de las Vueltas. If you are looking for an adrenaline packed adventure then this is it! The 6mile (10km) rafting starts of pretty slow and scenic giving you a view of the mountains and surrounding areas but then hold on tight as you descend the class 3 rapids! This was such a thrill and I'm pleased to say that none of the people on my raft fell in (5 on the other raft did, and we had a bit of a rescue mission to get them all back to the rafts) but honestly everyone was safe and it just made it a lot more exciting. I'd highly recommend this if you have a spare morning or afternoon. Spaces can be booked here or by popping into the many outlets in El Chalten. Chorillo Del Salto A short and non demanding hike will take you to the Chorillo Del Salto waterfall. You can either walk about an hour from the town or drive to the car park where you will reach the waterfall in around 10 minutes. A powerful waterfall and a great picnic spot. In the winter the waterfall can freeze which would be super cool to see. Rio Canadon do los Torros If you have a vehicle and a desire to see some more waterfalls or even try a spot of fishing then the drive to this lake is worth it. We stopped several times along the way to see waterfalls and had a lovely walk alongside the lake when we got there. Not to mention the views were pretty epic. El Calafate Our stay in El Calafate was short and it was mainly used as rest days after the O Trek. There isn't huge amount to do in the actual town - it is mainly used as a base for exploring the surrounding attractions. One thing I absolutely loved about here was the street dogs - they are basically community pets, everyone loves them and they are treated so well by all the locals. If you love dogs you will absolutely love it here. Perito Moreno Glacier Located in Los Glaciers National Park which is around 1.5 - 2 hours from El Calafate. You can book to join a tour who will take you there by bus, but we had a rental car so opted to drive there ourselves, giving us control over our own schedule. There is no shortage of parking when you arrive here as the car park is huge and free of charge, you will however have to pay an entrance fee to access the boardwalks which is currently 45,000 pesos (as of June 2025). There are five different boardwalks for you to choose from to give you different views of the glacier: Central Circuit – 600 metres – 1:00 hours – Easy Lower Circuit – 1100 metres – 1:15 hours – Challenging Forest Trail – 570 metres – 0:45 hours – Moderate Shoreline Trail – 1117 metres – 1:30 hours – Moderate Accessible Circuit – 565 metres – 0.30 hours – Very easy In my opinion, Perito Moreno is one of the most impressive glaciers I have ever seen, towering at up to 60m above the waters of Lago Argentino, we stood watching in awe for ages, gasping every time a chunk broke off and hit the water with a loud crash - you could hear the noise long before you could spot the chunk falling away. Perito Moreno is one of the few ice zones in the world that is advancing instead of retreating. Although there were a lot of people here I never really felt as though you had to fight for a good view as the park is really well spaced out. One thing to be mindful of is that even though you are standing watching a frozen glacier, it is so hot and the sun is really strong here so don't forget your sun cream, and I would also suggest taking some snacks as the queues for food were super long. For an even more exciting adventure you can also book a trip to trek on the glacier, or enjoy a boat trip for a close up look. Enjoy an Argentina Parrilla For meat lovers I cannot even begin to describe how delicious the food is in Calafate. An parrilla refers to grilled meats in an almost barbeque style and many of the restaurants you pass will have the meat on display, roasting over the grill in the window. Delicious. You may also find the opportunity to try guanaco, and I'd highly recommend trying a pisco or calafate sours alongside your dinner. Top Tips For El Calafate and El Chalten There can be a bit of a long wait to cross the border into Argentina - be prepared We found it really difficult to take money out of the ATM, we could literally only take like £1 out of the bank machines at any time which is a bit of a nightmare. If you can withdraw your money before you come here, it will save you a lot of hassle It can get WINDY and it is no joke. Be prepared with layers and with a plan B in case your first plan falls through Signal can be ropey so you should download offline maps before you set off on your hikes - Alltrails+ Fuel - if you are driving the fuel stations between El Calafate and El Chalten are limited, make sure you fill up before your journey
- The O Trek - Patagonia, from Paine Grande. Self-guided Hike Through the Mountains of Torres Del Paine, South America
The O Trek from Paine Grande In January 2024 we set off for the trip of a lifetime - hiking the O Trek in Patagonia, Torres Del Paine. The whole of the trek plus the viewpoints is 136k, and we did it over 7 days and 6 nights. We spent months planning and preparing for this trip. Upon reaching Chile, our first stop on the journey was Puerto Natales where we stayed for two nights to relax after the flight and make sure we had everything ready for the trek itself - this is a great base for the Trek and there is lots of information and excursions from here. Before setting off, you will want to give yourself some prep time to pack your rucksack, book your bus ticket to the park & to make sure you have snacks and food prepared for the trails - I actually made us sandwiches for the week so we didn't need to worry about lunch every day as we would likely be out hiking. We were lucky that our hotel let us leave our luggage as we had booked to stay there again on the night we got back from the O Trek - most places will allow you to do this, some may ask for a small fee. This guide contains everything about how we did it. We know that a lot of people start at camp central, but we wanted to mix it up a bit and start at Paine Grande. We wanted to do things this way where we would start off with most of the W trek and finished with the O. Things to know before you go - You have got to book into your campsites before arriving You can get dinner at some campsites but it is not always guaranteed so be prepared Everyone must walk the same direction on the O trek You will experience every single weather condition possible so pack accordingly You should download your park tickets to your phone or print them before entering the park as there is limited signal there and you need to show your tickets There are shower at most of the campsites - I can't guarantee that they are hot. The queues can be quite long and make sure you take shower shoes Wi-fi is available at most camps - some camps are paid and some are free. Again it is not guaranteed to be any good. A list of the campsites we stayed at - The total cost of our park entrance fees and campsite bookings for the trip was - $823/£652. I have numbered and highlighted the camps we stayed at in order in red on the map just for your information , although there are some other camps you can book into along the way to break down the longer days. An example of the snacks available at camp stores You absolutely must book all your campsites before arrival or they wont let you in the park. We used Torres Hike to do this as it made it simpler to book all the different campsites without going into the different companies booking systems. We thought we booked pretty far in advance but it turns out we were actually late as there were only certain options available at some sites. We had planned to rent tents at each of the campsites there, but at some sites they only had premium left so we had to take that - turns out that was actually quite lovely and they were tent boxes in the trees. If we were to do it again I'd probably try to book all premium for the comfort an ease at the end of the day. If you prefer, and are a bit more sociable than us, there are also Refugio's at most stops that you can book into. Now, there are supposed to some mini markets and groceries on some of the camps but I'd use that term loosely and wouldn't rely on them too much as some were pretty limited, great for grabbing biscuits and snacks but very limited on things you could make a substantial meal from. The pictures are from one of the more well stocked shops and as you can see you would still be rather limited. The further you got from the W trek the harder it got to source food from the shops. But, thankfully if you plan ahead all of the campsites have dining facilities where they will feed you your dinner - we didn't book ahead for any of these but we ended up doing some dinners last minute as it actually was pretty good value and a good feed. Refugio & Camp Cuernos - premium tent, groceries, WiFi, showers, food available if you book ahead Torres Central & North - premium tent, snacks only from shop, restaurant here - booked in for dinner and 3 course, well fed. Good vibes here Camp Serron - premium tent, possible puma sightings around this camp. There is supposed to be a minimarket here? We could not find it Refugio & Camping Dickson - standard tent, groceries here but very limited Camp Los Perros - standard tent. There really is nothing here, if you want dinner you must book it in advance. They can't even give you water to cook noodles. Everyone MUST leave the campsite by 6am Refugio & Campsite Grey - standard tent, restaurant, groceries & activities. Very well equipped & much busier as you are back on the W. * When it says supermarket & groceries on the camp information - take that lightly as it is very limited, not always stocked and tends to be mainly noodles or sometimes tinned fish. I'd definitely recommend trying to prepare as much as you can before entering the park and using this as a back up not a reliance. Useful maps & routes (for 30% off Alltrails+ click here ) Full O Trek & W Trek Paine Grande to Cuernos (including trek to Mirador Britanico) Cuernos to Torres Central Torres Central to Seron Seron to Dickson Dickson to Los Perros Los Perros to Grey - there are two sections to this as people often stop at the earlier camp Part 1 - Los Perros to Camp Paso Part 2 - Camp Paso to Grey Grey to Paine Grande Base Las Torres (towers for sunrise) Day 1 – Puerto Natales to Camp Cuernos Total Distance – 25k Paine Grande to Cuernos - 14.5k 5h Hike to Mirador Britanico and back 10k - bus from Puerto Natales to Pudeto - ferry across the lake into the park to Paine Grande (ticket bought on boat) - viewpoints Frances & Britanico We set off from our hotel Puerto Natales at 6am to ensure we had plenty time to reach the bus station and be on board the bus by 7am. The bus initially stops at Amargo gate where you must get off to show your park documents - I'd recommend downloading them to your phone ahead of this as there is no signal here and intermittent wi-fi. After this the journey continues on to Pudeto, soon the breath-taking mountain landscape will come into view. As we waited to board the ferry we grabbed some lunch from the café there and stood admiring the lake and in awe of the mountains that await us. One lesson I have learned from this trip is that the ferries very much run to their own time schedule. We entered the park and arrived at Camp Grande at around 11.30am and immediately set off for our first point of the day - camp Italiano. It may have been because of the excitement but we made it here in only 2 hours. From this point, you can opt to hike up to the Mirador Britanico, which I would definitely recommend as the view is incredible. To allow us to move more efficiently we left our bags at Italiano at the old camp base. As you ascend through Valle Frances, you are treated to incredible views and get your first glimpse of a glacier upon the mountains. We stopped to admire this for a while, wondering if any of the ice would break off and crash to the ground. By the time we reached camp Cuernos, we had hiked 16 miles, and it was starting to take its toll, feeling much longer due to carrying such big bags. We realised that this was an ambitious first day, but we knew our fitness and just wanted to push on. Some people choose to stay at Frances to shorten the journey. When we booked our camping, only the premium tents were available - these were like large tent boxes nestled amongst the woods, which turned out to be a blessing because the wind this night was fierce. It felt much safer to be in a sturdy tent sheltered by the trees than out in the open. The next morning, we saw someone who's tent had been destroyed by the winds. Overall an exciting and action packed first day. Day 2 – Camp Cuernos to Torres Central 11.6k – 4.5h After a long day yesterday we treated ourselves this morning and slept in a bit, knowing we had a shorter day of hiking ahead of us. We then walked on to Torres Central. It was a really hot day today, but it was a pretty short trail. We met some friendly Americans on the trail who were coming to the end of their trek, it was great to hear all their stories and tips. Along the trail there were cool little rope bridges enabling you to cross the rivers. Upon reaching Torres Central, we found it much livelier than the previous camp. This seems to be the main starting and ending point for the W trek and the point of entry for most day trips into the park. We enjoyed lunch in the sunshine at the restaurant - quesadillas and chips instead of the squashed sandwiches in our bag. There were stunning views of Monte Almirante Nieto from there, a stunning mountain that we actually looked into climbing whilst we were there, but the wind had other plans. The restaurant here had really good tunes playing and it was good vibes, so we naturally ended up drinking pisco sours in the sun. We decided to book in for dinner there, which was delicious – pumpkin soup, chicken and quinoa & a white chocolate mousse for dessert. Day 3 - Central Torres to Seron & Mirador Las Torres for sunrise Central to Seron 13k - 4 hours Base Las Torres 20k - 8 hours Total for the day - 33k We set our alarm to wake up in the middle of the night and set off to catch the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres. The path up was pretty straightforward in the dark, but make sure you have a good head torch with you as there are a few bits through the trees. During the last push to the view point, we somehow managed to stray from the path (which was really obvious - I blame the tiredness) and ended up scrambling up the rocks, which was actually quite fun. If you time it right, the mountain's face glows orange in the first light of the day - this was remarkable witness. We were certainly lucky because as soon as the sunrise show was over, the clouds rolled in and it rained for the rest of the day. I felt really sorry for the people coming up after us, as it was dull and rainy, and there probably weren't very good views at the top. After returning to camp, we took a quick nap before continuing on to our next destination - our campsite at Seron. Just as we were leaving Torres Central, two pumas crossed right in front of our path, we were incredibly lucky to witness such magnificent creatures up close. The hike to Seron was quite soggy and uneventful due to the constant rain. This was our first experience of the O Trek, and became noticeable as there were significantly fewer people around. Our tent at Camp Seron was up a hill, which gave us stunning views. We were able to have dinner here too in the small dining room - I actually really enjoyed the dinners as it gave you a chance to chat to other people who were doing the same route as you. Day 4 - Seron to Dickson 18k – 6 hours This hike offered my favourite views on the trail so far (excluding the viewpoint excursions). Upon reaching the pass, you can see the mountainous landscape directly ahead. It was extremely windy, and I actually did see a few people get blown over. You must do a check in with the park guards halfway along the route, where they will review your paperwork. The second part of the hike is pretty flat, with boardwalks leading you over the wet boggy areas. After one final push up onto the hillside, you can spot your campsite in the distance - but the descent to get there is pretty steep. From the camp, if you want to explore a bit more, you can set out to find the gravel beach at the back of the camp, which offers stunning views of the alpine water and mountains. This was our first night sleeping on the ground in a tent, and it was much colder than I had anticipated, so I ended up renting a thick sleeping mat from the reception. Day 5 - Dickson to Los Peros 11.8k – 4.5h When we awoke at Camp Dickson, we were fortunate to witness the mountain rescue helicopter coming in to land at our camp for some training - an exhilarating start the day. This section of the route was a pleasant, gentle walk through a woodland area. On the approach to the next campsite, you'll see an alpine lake with a glacier flowing into it - this was the perfect place to stop for a rest. I honestly wouldn't hurry to reach this camp, as there's not much to see or do. The camping area is quite cramped and hidden away in the woods. You can have dinner here, but nothing else, and if you haven't booked it in advance then you're out of luck - speaking from experience. Although we didn't actually want dinner, just some hot water to make our noodles we had bought from the previous camp, but even that was a challenge. We managed to charm the woman at the ranger hut into popping the kettle on for us and helping us out - legend! Everyone HAD to leave camp by 6am to cross the John Garner pass, so we turned in for an early night. We didn't sleep very well as it was really quite windy in the woods but we got enough rest to prepare us for the big day ahead the following day. Day 6 - Los Peros to Grey 15k – 11 hours John Garner Pass Suspension bridges x 3 First views of the Glacier I awoke feeling quite drowsy from a rubbish sleep due to the wind and the noise from others getting ready to leave camp for the day. We set off up the mountain at a good pace, passing many hikers who had started before us. We knew it would be a pretty long day; although the distance wasn't great there was a steep ascent and descent. The climb to the top of Garners Pass wasn't too difficult; we managed in good time. Once you reach the top, you get your first glimpse of Glacier Grey, which was magnificent. I've been fortunate enough to see a glacier before but not one this impressive. It remained in view for the rest of the journey, making the descent more enjoyable. If you looked closely, you could see tiny figures walking on it - little did we know that we would be those people the next day. There are also three suspension bridges to cross on the way to Camp Grey. Some of these are pretty daunting as they are very high off the ground, crossing deep ravines, and by early afternoon, the wind picks up significantly causing them to sway slightly - which can be quite frightening. Upon reaching Camp Grey, you have re-joined the W trail, so things begin to get much livelier again and there are more facilities. We sniffed out an activities centre nearby to check if it was possible to kayak to the glacier the following morning. This wasn't available due to the weather but we were offered ice trekking on the glacier instead. We were lucky to snag a last minute space, but I would definitely recommend booking to ensure you get the chance. We also went on a bit of a side quest after reaching the camp to visit the bay on Lago Grey, where you could see the icebergs that had broken off from the glacier up close; some of these were huge. Day 7 - Camp Grey to Paine Grande 11k – 3.5 hours The end of the O Trek Big foot excursions ice trek on the glacier - 5 hours £170/ $225 Last ferry back to Podeto Bus return to Puerto Natales - 7pm On our final day of the O Trek, I felt quite sad it was coming to an end, though my body was looking forward to a proper shower and comfortable bed. We got up early to hike on the glacier with Big Foot Excursions . The tour group provided us with crampons for safely walking on the ice, and we were able to leave out backpacks at their office, taking only what was necessary for the morning. This adventure lasted about three hours and was incredible. We took a boat to the excursion's starting point, which was thrilling because there was always the possibility that huge chunks of ice could break free from the glacier and crash into the water creating massive waves. During the trek, we walked across the glacier, explored inside an ice cave, and peered over the edge into one of the crevasses. This was a thrilling experience and a great way to fill our last morning here. The second half on the day and the trek to Paine Grande was longer than anticipated and so so windy. I don't think I've ever been anywhere in my life that is as windy as Patagonia and I live in Scotland so that's saying something. You have great views of Lago Grey on the walk. We had some downtime time to chill at the restaurant/bar at Paine Grande, where we indulged in one too many pisco sours to celebrate our accomplishments (we celebrated with these quite frequently during the trek as well). The ferry to return back to Pudeto was late (surprise surprise) and very crowded. The bus journey back felt long as we were tired from the thrilling days in the park. As soon as we reached Puerto Natales we headed straight to the nearest bar to eat our own body weight in food and beers - it was well deserved. Just a little windy We did it! We completed the O Trek. What an incredible journey overall in the most beautiful part of the world. If you ever get the chance to embark on this wonderful trip then you absolutely should do it! If you have any questions or comments leave them below - I hope you have enjoyed reading about our version of the O Trek. Feel free to read more about my South American Adventures here . Me feeling small against Patagonia's incredible mountains
- South American Adventures - 48 hours of horseback riding in the mountains, off grid wild camping, cooking over the fire & star gazing. A birthday dream
Ok, so this blog isn't my usual informative guide, but I just couldn't resist sharing this amazing experience with you, as horseback riding through the mountains of South America is a memory that I will never forget. This was completely organised by someone Tom knows who lives over there, so I wouldn't even know where to begin to plan this yourself. What a unique and special way to spend my 35th birthday. Day 1 We arrived into Santiago in the morning, but our luggage decided it was much happier back in London, causing us some panic as all of out kit for the O Trek was packed in it, and we would urgently need it in the next few days. The airline assured us it would be on the way on the next flight, so we decided to just carry on with our plans and hope it arrived. Fortunately, we were staying with Tom's friend in Puerto Montt, so after a quick flight there, we borrowed some of their clothes & went to a supermarket to prepare us for the next few days. Upon arriving at Dionisio's wonderful home, we were treated to a large home-cooked lunch of delicious seafood and meat and then quickly sorted out our saddles and horse bags ready for the next part of our adventures. Our guide for the next few days had already taken the horses to the meeting point ready for the next morning. Off to the mountains we went and after dinner and some drinks we settled down in the Refugio to spend the night. Day 2 It's my birthday!!! And I can't imagine a better way to wake up than in a cabin in the mountains!! We experienced a minor delay as one of the horses had been kicked by another, so our guide had to return it to the ranch and bring a suitable replacement. Once we eventually mounted our horses, we started our trek into the mountains. There was so much to take in and we were only just getting started - the views around us were insane. My horse, Peppa, was a bit of a madam and insisted on being ahead of Tom’s horse at all times & nowhere near Dionisio's or she would lash out. The first half of the day involved riding up the steep hills, and then we stopped for lunch next to a small lake. The horse flies around here were no joke, and I got bitten so many times, it was so painful. As we continued the trek, we had to tackle several river crossings, which the horses handled brilliantly but the wee dog looked like he might get swept away at one point. Eventually, we reached our camping spot for the night and set up our tent in the middle of the mountains. The horses were allowed to roam around the area where we camped (I was somewhat worried they might run off and we would have to walk back, but they didn't). We gathered twigs and firewood from nearby trees, constructed a spit and a frame for cooking the meat we brought and set it over a blazing fire. We sat around sharing stories and laughing, and it honestly felt like we had all known each other for ages - isn't it amazing how spending time in nature can bring that out in people? As dusk fell we were treated to a chorus of frogs croaking by the river. It was so constant that it became soothing and we slept like babies through the night. Day 3 We woke up in the mountains and kicked off the day with a tasty breakfast of eggs cooked on the hot stone alongside some fresh avocado. Luckily for us, our horses didn't run off during the night, so we saddled them up and got ready for the trek back. It felt a lot smoother today as we had settled in and our confidence had grown - I even managed to get off to a wee canter. After spending eight hours on horseback yesterday, things were taking their toll and we were starting to walk like John Wayne. My horse and Tom's horse were much closer today - so close that my horse let out the biggest fart right on Tom's horses head. Naturally, this set me off and I couldn't stop laughing. On our way back, we had to avoid and duck under branches (Tom nearly lost his head at one point) and squeeze through rather tight gorges - it seemed like it should be rather challenging for the horses but they took it all in their stride. At one point, we went down an incredibly steep slope, and the trip leader gave us the option to get off and walk alongside the horses, we braved it and made it down safely. The day was filled with laughter and giggling, really bringing out our inner kids. When we got back, we said goodbye to the horses, thanked you to the leaders and returned to Dionisio's house for a good wash and the biggest slap up family dinner I've ever seen. The hospitality in this country is so warm and welcoming, and I would definitely spend much longer here if I was given the opportunity.
- My Stay at the Highland Club & Exploring the Top Things to Do in the Scottish Highlands
Accommodation I was very lucky to be given the chance to stay at the Highland Club in Fort Augustus . Now, I've seen pictures of this place online and I thought 'yeah that looks pretty cool' but when I arrived I was blown away. As you arrive you are buzzed in through the old iron electric gates and are treated to the sight of the old converted Abbey towering in front of you - looking much like a magical castle. We were then greeted by Marty and Graeme, who delighted us to a tour around the grounds, giving us a little history lesson about what used to be here. They have been incredibly helpful throughout our stay here. The building architecture, gargoyles, long cloister style corridors and features such as the giant chess board give off Harry Potter vibes and there really is something magical about the building. Plus, it is literally right on the bank of Loch Ness, you are only a two minute walk away from the Loch and the hopeful opportunity to spot Nessie at any given time. On site there are numerous facilities including; An incredibly welcoming reception - where you can chill and they have snacks and drinks for the Highland Club guests (I may have raided the fridge to satisfy a fizzy juice craving one evening.) Swimming Pool, Spa & Sauna - Must be pre-booked. Only 10 people can book at any one time but personally I would try to book for a quieter time to have more space to yourself. The sauna & steam room would seat about 3 people at a time. Bookings can be made via the online booking system between 9 - 6pm. Lounge room - pool table, comfortable chairs and you can take your drinks down. Access until 11pm Gym - can fit two people at a time. You must book this in advance. Sports Simulator - This must be booked online in advance for a maximum of 4 people. The cost is £45 for an hour and 15 minutes and you can choose from a huge variety of games from football, racing, shooting, baseball (my favourite), golf and loads more. This was a great way to pass a rainy morning. Boathouse restaurant - enjoy lunch, dinner or a drink in the converted boathouse on the pier of Loch Ness. Open from spring onwards. Library - in my opinion this was honestly the coolest room in the whole building. Loads of books for you to read, give a sort of mystic themed. With Harry potter cushions and decorations hidden within the bookshelves it was definitely giving magical vibes. The Magical Library Our Apartment The Highland Club look after 16 apartments on the premises and we were out in number 15 Abbey Church and wow - I was not expecting such a gorgeous layout. The décor inside is so stylish and gives and old money aesthetic. I was completely surprised by the sheer size of the place and spent the first ten minutes discovering new rooms and appliances we had - this place is better equipped than my house! We had two huge bedrooms, the master has an en-suite, the kitchen is just massive with a large wooden dining table, a desk in the corridor if you need to get some work done whilst you are away, there are numerous books, games, quizzes and things for activities all around the apartment if you fancied a rest day of chilling. and with views from the living room and bedrooms onto Loch Ness. We were very kindly presented with a welcome hamper of dreams - with so many goodies in it: fudge, popcorn, shortbread, wine, pasta, noodles, crackers, cereals and porridge. Between the apartment and the on site facilities there is so much to do here, you could happily stay on the grounds for your entire stay. But that's not what I'm about (they don't call me db.explores for nothing) and being in such an beautiful part of Scotland you would be missing out if you didn't get out to explore for yourself. Things To Do In The Scottish Highlands - Loch Ness - the loch is literally a two minute walk from the apartments. A peaceful place to sit and enjoy the views, take a picnic or try your luck at spotting Nessie. Take a Cruise on Loch Ness - River Ness Cruises is also a two minute walk from your apartments. At the moment they are running a 50 minute trip on the Loch daily at 1pm, 2pm and 3pm at a cost of £20 per adult. I didn't spot Nessie this time but I did learn lots of interesting facts about the loch. Do you believe a plesiosaur or monster is living here? Steall Falls - a 40 minute walk will take you to Scotland's second highest waterfall with a 120m drop. You can either wade through the shallow river or cross the wire bridge (which is amazing fun) to get the best view of the falls. This is also one for the Harry Potter fans, as some of the scenes were filmed here. See more waterfalls featured on my list of the best waterfalls in Scotland . Glenfinnan Viaduct - another one for the Potter fans. Around an hours drive away from The Highland Club. £5 parking at the visitors centre. You can walk up to several viewpoints on the hill and if you time your visit right you will be delighted by the passing of the Harry Potter train. Loch Shiel - a scenic viewpoint over Loch Shiel and the surrounding mountains. Harry Potter fans may recognise this from the movies. This is right across from the viaduct carpark so it makes sense to visit at the same time. There is also an impressive war monument there to commemorate the Jacobite Rising. Loch Tarff - A small freshwater Loch just 20 minutes away from the Highland Club. With impressive views and some hill walks, I would recommend stopping here on your way to the Falls of Foyer. If you look carefully you may be lucky to spot some wildlife - stags, birds of prey, frogs, ducks and fish are all frequent visitors around here. Falls of Foyer - These falls were a lot more impressive than I was expecting, standing tall at an impressive 140ft. You walk down quite a steep set of stairs (I'd say maybe 100 total) through the woodland to reach the upper viewpoint which is maybe 5-10 minutes away from the entrance, if you wish you can continue down to the lower viewpoint which is not much further down and gives impressive views of the gorge. There is a shop and café at the entrance to the falls if you need to refuel before or after your adventure. Plodda Falls - this is around a 50 minute drive from The Highland Club but absolutely worth the journey, even the view driving to the falls is impressive. After a short walk from the carpark you will reach the wooden viewing platform where you can walk out to a suspended ledge over the falls. This is really quite thrilling and if you look down you will see the waterfall plunging 151ft into the valley below. You will need a head for heights for this part. If you continue your walk you can walk through the impressive fir trees to a lower platform where the trees have created their own viewing platform from their roots. From here you will be blown away by the noise and force of the powerful falls in the distance. Corpach Shipwreck (The Old Boat of Caol) - An old fishing vessel that has been moored on the shores of Kinlochleven. This is a popular spot for tourists and photographers alike. Do Some Hiking - you are surrounded by some of the finest hills that Scotland has to offer. Notably, Ben Nevis is less than an hours drive away and can be reached from the tourist path at Glen Nevis. If you are a Munro Bagger there are multiple hills near here waiting to be ticked off. ** If you are going to enjoy some hiking, please make sure you have a route planned, you've told someone where you are going and are carrying the correct equipment. I hope you've found this blog helpful to make the most of your stay with The Highland Club, and to guide you in finding the best things to do in the Scottish Highlands - such a wonderful part of Scotland. Feel free to check out my other blogs about exploring in Scotland .
- Things to do on the Isle of Arran, Scotland
Our journey started by hopping on the Calmac ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick which only takes 55 minutes. We booked to take the car over but you also have the option to travel as foot passengers. We based ourselves at the Kings Caves Glamping pods . These comfortable and spacious self catering pods are in a fantastic central location, and there is a communal hot tub that you can rent on site. We picked up a great deal on these. You also have some friendly geese as neighbours who might come right up to your door to see what you're up to. Things to Do on Arran Kings Caves T he coastal path that takes you to the Kings Caves is more than just a walk, it's a historical trip through stunning scenery. As you stroll along you will be blessed with views of the rocky coastline, vast ocean and waves crashing against the cliffs. This spot is famous thanks to Robert the Bruce, the legendary Scottish king who is rumoured to have hidden out here whilst planning his victorious comeback battle against the English. This is where the legendary story of the spider comes from, Bruce is said to have watched the spider spinning his web in the corner of the cave. The spider kept failing but eventually succeeded and this inspired Bruce to keep fighting for Scotland's freedom. This story is now symbolic in Scottish folklore and is a reminder about never giving up even when things get tough. The caves are like a time capsule, with old graffiti and markings on the walls dating back to the 19th century. If you decide to explore further down the path, you'll find more hidden caves tucked away from the main trail. But be careful - it can be slippery and some require a little bit of scrambling to get there. This part reminded me of Jurassic Park, with the thick plants, moss covered rocks and overgrowth covering the ground beneath you. On our walk we came across a goat that had slipped and fell from the cliffs above and sadly perished on the rocks below. We used this Alltrails route. If you would like a further 30% off Alltrails+ click here . Eas A'Chrannaig (Glenashdale Falls) The Eas A'Chrannaig or Glenashdale falls is a must see, the walk to the falls is just as amazing as the falls themselves, taking you through lush forests, tall trees, and colourful plants. The surroundings are very peaceful and the sounds of nature make it a great escape for anyone who loves the outdoors. The waterfall is pretty remarkable as it crashes down the rocky cliffs. The force of the water creates a mist that hangs in the air, and if the sun’s out, you might even be lucky enough to catch a rainbow in the spray, adding a magical touch. As well as the falls, there’s also the chance to check out the nearby Giants' Graves, ancient burial sites with loads of history. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the Giants' Graves on this trip, but I will be back. And, the walk to the waterfall provided a great experience on its own. Check out more of the best waterfalls to visit in Scotland . Machrie Moor Standing Stones About a 45 minute walk from the car down a farm track, we timed this perfectly so we would catch the sunset during our visit. As the sky turned orange the stones stood out impressively against the backdrop. The site is the remains of six standing stone circles dating back around 4500 years, where they are believed the have been a religious site for worship, cremations and burials. One of the circles is known as Fingal's (the giant) cauldron seat and is Scottish myths is said to be where Fingal the giant sat to cook his dinner. There are information boards along the way to tell you the historical significance and be sure to explore past the first circle. Glen Rosa & The Fairy Pools We parked at the campsite and walked into Glen Rosa on a beautiful sunny day. The green grass, blue waters and towering mountains up ahead make a really picturesque scene. There are several pools in the glen and you will reach the first one around 1.5 miles into your walk. If you continue on, you will find lots of other swimming opportunities, waterfalls, places to jump in and the famous 'Fairy' pools. We visited in April and although it was nice and sunny outside the pools were freezing, it certainly was enough to wake you up and after being brave enough to jump in I wanted to do it again and again. The area around the pools is full of different plants and animals, making it a great spot for nature lovers and photographers. I'd definitely recommend a walk through Glen Rosa on your trip to Arran, you can make your hike as as challenging as you see fit with the option to continue through the Glen and up to Goatfell. North Goatfell & Goatfell If you fancy a bit of a challenge and summiting a mountain is on your horizons then look no further than Goatfell. Climbing up Goatfell, especially from the north side, is a thrilling adventure that gives you amazing views and a real sense of achievement. The northern route takes you along a rocky ridge with a few scrambling bits, adding some excitement to your hike. While this path can be steep and tough, it's doable if you're in decent shape and ready for the trek. If you want an easier climb, you can take the regular route to Goatfell, which skips North Goatfell. This way is well-pathed and a lot gentler. The views from the top of Goatfell are amazing, especially if you manage to catch the sunset, when the sky lights up with vibrant colours - just please make sure you have a head torch for the route back down. As per hiking any mountain in the UK make sure you are appropriately dressed and have the correct navigation and equipment for your day. Honesty Boxes Throughout the year you will find various honesty boxes dotted around all over the island, where the locals sell their home baking, eggs, jams, vegetables and more. The honesty boxes are usually an eye catching handmade wooden set up which is located at the end of a drive way or near farms which encourages locals or tourists to get involved in using them. The idea behind these honesty boxes is simple but meaningful: you pick out your items, and then drop your payment in the box. This setup counts on the community's honesty, promoting responsibility and mutual respect among everyone who uses it. As you explore the island you will come across different honesty boxes offering different services. This cool approach not only boosts local businesses but also strengthens community bonds, making it a beloved part of island life. This was my first ever visit to Arran and I can't wait to return to explore some more. If anyone has any suggestions please leave a comment below. Feel free to check out my other blogs about exploring in Scotland .
- 24 hours in London - A trip to parliament and a 3 Michelin star dinner at The Connaught in Mayfair. A food review as someone who is definitely not a foodie.
We embarked on a whirlwind 24 hour trip to London to visit parliament and decided to make the most of it with a trip to the Connaught hotel for a fancy dinner and for my partner to share his oysters with the chefs to let them try them before serving them (how crazy to think that Toms oysters are now served in Michelin star restaurants across the UK and this was the first one we supplied). Our trip went a little like this... We left Edinburgh on the 10:50 am flight to London City and then hopped on the tube straight to Parliament. We were lucky enough to snag an invite to celebrate 25 years of Seafood Scotland. After showing our invites at the gates, we went through security which was very thorough and Tom almost got in trouble for smuggling an oyster shell in in his pocket. The event was set to kick off at 2:30 pm, so we had about half an hour to hang out in the hall—and wow, what a building! As soon as you walk in, you're blown away by the huge ceilings and stained glass windows. To give you an idea of the size, there was a cherry picker fully extended, just so workers could fix the lights. On our way to the event room, we passed the House of Commons, which was in session and heavily secured, with no phones allowed in that area at all. The Seafood Scotland event started with a welcome speech from Torcuil Crichton, followed by some great talks from Ian Murray and Diane from Seafood Scotland. Then it was time for networking, catching up, and, most importantly, enjoying sandwiches, cakes, and champagne. We had to dash out to make it to the Connaught restaurant in time to catch up with the chefs before tonight's service. When we got there, the oysters we'd sent ahead were already in the kitchen, waiting for the head chef to try them. He loves them, so fingers crossed this means Tom can start supplying them in here. Being in the kitchen was amazing, with everyone hustling to prep for dinner. We let them get on with it and headed back to the hotel to get ready for our own dinner plans. The Connaught hotel is visually striking—a grand, historic building full of character and charm, with the friendliest doorman to welcome you as you come and go. An Aston Martin and a Rolls Royce parked at the entrance hint at the type of clientele the hotel attracts. However, the guests are quite diverse across the different rooms, and I believe everyone should experience a visit at least once in their lifetime. We were told to go check out the Connaught bar so we popped in ahead of dinner. This was a charming bar area bustling with guests. As soon as we sat down, they brought over some olives and crackers, plus a welcome drink on the house. I don't drink alcohol so I opted for an alcohol free cocktail and I'm not 100% sure of exactly what it was or what was in it but it tasted amazing - it did have the biggest ice cube I ever did see in my glass though. Tom decided to give the famous martini truck a go. They wheel it over to you and the first step is to choose your base flavour. The wonderful server proceeds to drop a tiny tincture of flavours onto a piece of card and allows you to choose which aroma attracts you the most. Meanwhile he is mixing up your martini like a boss and putting on a thrilling show! Finally, when all is done, your martini is served. I have it on good record that it was an extremely good martini. Just a heads up, a few drinks at the bar could easily get quite expensive with some of the cocktails ranging up to £2000 for the ones with aged spirits. My jaw was on the floor. It was now time for our dinner. We were both completely ravenous, which was lucky as we were about to be served seven courses - plus some surprise additional courses courtesy of the chefs - which was a remarkably kind gesture and we got to really experience what the Connaught menu was all about. Their menu offers a set 7-course meal (with an option to choose 5 courses) and includes the possibility to upgrade three of the dishes. The cost of the dinner is £225 per person, not including the supplements or drinks. The restaurant's interior was spotless, and the service was outstanding. For each dish, one waiter would introduce the course, while two others would serve you, ensuring the plates were placed on the table simultaneously. Now I'm about to talk you through every course here, so be prepared. This was a seven course taster menu and we were also given some surprise dishes courtesy of the chefs. Tom enjoyed some glasses of wine with his dinner, where as I opted for alcohol free wine from Germany which was actually really lovely, you could taste the beautiful g rapes. Mushroom & Pine Nut Consume. This was a little pallet cleanser to begin with, it was like a clear soup. I really enjoyed this as it lots of flavour. You could really taste the mushrooms, it tasted really earthy but in a good way (Tom says the word is umami apparently) Canapés. In front of us were three of the most exquisite looking canapés, resembling works of art that seemed almost too beautiful to eat. Two were adorned with edible flowers, while the third was covered in gold. They featured anchovies with Amalfi lemon, cured venison and wild mushrooms coated in gold, and sea trout with dill. My favourite was the sea trout and dill, but all of them were incredibly delicious. Course 1 - Red Mullet. We both opted for this dish instead of choosing to upgrade to caviar. Red mullet is type of fish for anyone who didn't know as I didn't, it was quite raw almost like the fish you get in sushi. I really enjoyed it, it wasn't an overly strong tasting fish and there was a delicious foam alongside it. I really liked the foam part - I think it had a taste of hazelnut. We were off to a good start with this dish. Surprise Course - Caviar . We could have picked the caviar for our first course, but we didn't. However the chefs very kindly sent this out for us to share so we could try it. The caviar was atop of a bed of a blended seafood which consisted of langoustine, sea urchin, cauliflower and pine nuts. I really loved the caviar but the seafood mix was just a little too over powering for me, it was very strong in flavour, so I only had a little and focused on the caviar. On the flip side, Tom was all over the seafood blend and thought it was one of the best things he had tastes. I guess it just goes to show how different tastes can be! Course 2 - Smoked Beetroot. This was my favourite savoury dish of the evening. The flavours were simply exceptional. I never knew beetroot could taste like this. It was smoked in the kitchen and dropped in the fire, with the top layers removed to reveal a delightful taste underneath. It was served with a wonderful creamy sauce, along with pike and trout roe. Wow!! Intermediate - Homemade Bread and Butter. The butter looked amazing it looked like something from a reef under the sea or as if it had been pushed through a playdough machine. The bread had been baked freshly in the kitchen and was really lovely but I was aware of how much food we still had to come so I didn't eat too much as I didn't want to take up any more room in my stomach. Course 3 - Scallop This delicious large Scottish scallop came all the way from Scotland, just like us. This was served alongside a carrot puree which was lovely and there was a hint of spices throughout the dish. It was a lightly poached scallop which is different from the way we would usually cook ours. This tasted lovely but I'm not too keen on a lot of citrus flavour so that put me off slightly. Surprise Course - Sweetbread & Tuna Heart. This was an option from the specials menu, and yes you read that correctly... tuna heart! Did I ever envisage myself eating tuna heart? No, I absolutely not. But did I eat it and even enjoy it? Yes, surprisingly I did. The tuna heart was two years old and had been dried and aged. The server had to wear a glove whilst shaving on to the top of the dish - like you would a truffle. The smell was very strong but it didn't taste too strong in the dish. During the meal I asked Tom what sweetbread was and he politely told me that he would tell me what it is after I finished eating it, which now in hindsight I am thankful for. Sweetbread is a baby calf's pancreas - never thought I'd see the day that I would be eating this but here we were. Overall the sweetbread was nice and crispy and full of flavour and the tuna heart complimented it perfectly. Course 4 - John Dory. So, I didn't know what a John Dory was at first, but now I know it's a type of fish. I think this one was caught in Cornwall? The dish was amazing, especially with the creamy bagna cauda sauce that I loved. It's like a creamy lemon sauce, and even though I said before that I'm not really into citrus, this was different because it was creamy. Course 5 - Pigeon. This was a tough one for me, I mean the taste was lovely but it was just the texture that threw me. You are supposed to have pigeon quite rare but it's just too spongy for me. I know most people enjoy it this way but it just weirded me out, which is annoying cause I think I could have really liked the taste. I'm not too sure what the thing in the side dish was but I preferred that. The dish was served with pumpkin puree, blood orange and mole sauce - my favourite part of the dish, the flavour as lovely. We actually ended up taking a little break here, as we had eaten so much by this point it was hard to keep going without feeling like we were going to burst. We were taken down into the kitchen where we thanked the chefs for an absolutely incredible meal and the delicious food we had enjoyed so far. Pre Dessert. This dish was similar to a sourdough bread pudding served with apple ice cream and compote, accompanied by a story about Helene's childhood and her upbringing in France. Course 6 - Rhubarb. This was hands down my favourite dessert of them all. The rhubarb came with these amazing meringue sticks on top and also came with a glass of kombucha. The dessert was nicely light and super refreshing, which was just what I needed after a big dinner. I could eat this one over and over again. Course 7 - D Chocolate, T Signature Baba. I opted for the chocolate and Tom was given the baba from the specials menu. Mine was lovely and had little artichoke crisps on the top. As tasty as it was it was a little too rich for me and chocolatey (I'm not a huge chocolate lover) at this late stage in the game after having ate so much already. Tom picked the Signature Rum Baba which was a sponge pudding. You got to choose which aged rum you would like from the trolley to pour over the top of it - Tom chose the 20 year old rum for one side of the pudding and the 30 year old for the other side - best of both worlds. This dish also came with a sorbet - which was grapefruit flavour which I ate, this was stunning. Final Treat - Truffles. Just when you thought you couldn't eat any more, two truffles show up for one last treat. By this point I'm literally about to burst but the food is so good I just can't resist. One's a cream and almond truffle—super light and refreshing. The other is a chocolate truffle with a whisky kick which I found sooooo strong, I found this one pretty tough to handle. So as you can imagine, after eating all that, I was understandably like a burst couch. I don't think I could have eaten another thing if I tried. So off we wobbled to the hotel to settle in for the night. Full but happy. We were planning to go out for drinks but I couldn't move so we opted to spend the night back at the hotel. I would absolutely come back here again. Although it can get quite pricey, I do think it was value for money and absolutely worth every penny. For some people in the hotel spending this amount on a dinner and drinks would not be a big deal at all. My favourite dishes - BBQ Beetroot and the Rhubarb Desert. Toms favourite dishes - Sweetbread and Caviar Starter dish
- Summiting Kilimanjaro via the Machame Route over 6 days, 5 nights
In March 2023, we flew to Tanzania to take on the challenge of summiting Africa's highest peak. As we were both pretty experienced hikers, we opted for one of the shortest routes up the mountain, which was the Machame route over 6 days & 5 nights (summiting on the morning of day 5). We did this with Local Moshi Adventures - a local guiding company who I would highly recommend The excursion cost roughly $1800pp excluding our flights (this did not include the tips for the guides but I will cover that topic later). How To Get There - The starting point for most of the routes to the summit is from the town of Moshi in Tanzania. The nearest international airports would be Nairobi, Kenya or Dar es Salam. The flight is really small with only about 12 people on it, but it is pretty magnificent to have a birds eye view over the African plains. You can also get to Moshi by bus from these areas if you would prefer this to flying. Day by Day on Kilimanjaro Day 1 Machame Gate to Machame Camp (3,000m) 11km 1000m Day 2 Machame Camp to Shira Cave Camp (3,850m) 5km 850m Day 3 Shira Cave to Lava Tower to Barranco (3,950m) 10km 780m Day 4 Barranco Camp to Barafu Camp (4,673m) 10km 700m Day 5 Barafu Camp to Summit to Mweka (3,100m) 13km 1200m Day 6 Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate (1,640m) 10km 1500m loss Day 1 - 11km - Machame Gate to Machame Camp - 5 hours We spent the night before the trek at a local hotel in Moshi. In the morning our porters came to collect us at the hotel - we were assigned twelve porters for our group of just two - which at first seemed quite extreme but each of the men had their own job and was a pleasure the have along on the journey with us. We drove to Machame gate, which is roughly 1-2 hours away, to register and get our bags checked and weighed before the hike. Your bag must not weigh any more than 15kg, and items such as plastic bags/ bottles or any alcoholic drinks are not allowed into the park. We then set off through dense rainforests rich in tall trees and various plant life. We were lucky enough to spot some monkeys playing in the trees above us but we also get caught in a thunderstorm which made the forest charismatic. We stopped for lunch half way which was a packed lunch that we had picked up from the gate. On arrival at Machame Camp, we were showered in petals and a warm welcome from the porters who are always ready with a song and a dance. This was the first of us seeing our camping setup and it was incredible - for those of us who are used to wild camping, it was maybe a little too much luxury than we expected - we had a toilet tent, table and chairs to eat on and were given a basin of warm water in the evening and morning to wash in. All of these are luxuries that we usually go without if we are camping at home but I guess it was special touches to provide people with some home comforts. We were served hot drinks (my favourite was Milo) and popcorn whilst we spent some time taking in the views from the camp. We had a three course meal for dinner before settling down to watch the stars for the evening. Day 2 - 9km - Machame Camp to Shira Cave Camp - 5 hours After a hearty breakfast the day starts off with a pretty steep incline that takes you through the rainforest, once you climb your way to above the treeline don't forget to stop to look back for some epic views. Shortly after the steep rainforest section we stopped for lunch - it was a rather busy spot with most of the other groups also stopping here - we had a packed lunch but some of the teams were setting up full tents with tables and chairs for a full sit down lunch - I personally would not have wanted this every day. This is where we experienced our first long drop toilet and some curious ravens who had came to see if we had left any crumbs. As the day continues, the setting around you transforms from leafy rainforests into something that looks like a scene from Jurassic park, with incredibly interesting rock formations. The terrain is rocky and there are some streams and water sources that you may need to navigate - depending on the weather. Upon reaching Shira Cave Camp, our guides gave us the opportunity to rest in our tents for a while then if we wanted to they would take up to hike a bit further to see the Shira Cave and we were keen to explore a bit more. Shira Cave is a natural cave formation which was used as accommodation in the early days of climbing Kilimanjaro, and although nobody is allowed to sleep in it these days, we did spot a cute little mouse which has made the cave its home. There are some cool rock formations up here and you can climb up to give yourself a birds eye view across the campsite. This was where I noticed an extreme temperature drop in the evenings and some tents even had a coating of frost that had formed during the night. Day 3 - 12km - Shira Cave Camp to Lava Tower to Barranco Camp - 7.5 hours On day 3 we climb high and sleep low. This was all about getting our bodies acclimatised to the altitude so we ascended around 900m to Lava Tower which was at a height of 4,600m, followed by a descent of 800m to sleep low at Barranco camp (3,900m). As we set off from Shira Cave camp we had beautiful weather and could even see Meru Peak peeking through the clouds. As you walk on through the alpine desert there is no longer much plant life to view but instead you will see a vast amount of people making their way across the plain to reach Lava Tower - giving the impression of little ants in the distance. Kilimanjaro clearly came into view for us here, and we could see the vast snowy silhouette ahead. Lunch is at Lava Tower camp which is a 300m high volcanic plug on the mountain - it is certainly a sight to behold. This was the only lunch spot that our porters insisted on building up our tent for us to eat our lunch in, and to rest to acclimatise for a few hours before continuing the journey down. As much as a rest was appealing, we are only here once so we took a short walk to explore and take in the views - there were loads of cool rocks to climb up to sit on and take it all in. After a few hours we continued the journey on to Barranco camp. This part of the hike felt like we were in a movie as we walked past giant groundsel trees, which are actually a type of daisy the size of a tree. Fun fact - this is the only place in the world where you can see them! Barranco camp is definitely the busiest camp of them all, as it is the point where multiple trekking routes meet. You will be greeted by the site of a vast amount of coloured tents against the grey rocky backdrop. There are a lot more people here than the other camps, and it can be quite loud during the night and in the early hours of the morning - I'd advise ear plugs if you want a peaceful nights sleep. Day 4 - 10km - Barranco to Barafu (Base Camp) - 5.5 hours We woke up early and after a good breakfast, we set off from camp to beat the crowds on the Barranco wall. Because there are so many people leaving from the campsite, this point can get quite crowded and with the narrow paths there isn't much opportunity to over take. You ascend Barranco wall which is steep and rocky and at some points is a hands on scramble. I had so much fun doing this section and have complete admiration for the porters who do this whilst carrying all the equipment - sometimes even balanced on their heads. You pass by the famous kissing wall - a narrow point where you have to press by the rocks. This wasn't actually as bad as people make out (see pictures), just take care and you will be fine. I think our guide noticed how much we both enjoyed the scrambling and took us up an alternative path to reach the plateau. We continued on via a descent through Karanga valley and Karanga camp where many groups will stop for the night, before we finally reached Barafu camp which would be our base camp before the summit push the next morning. You could feel the excitement throughout the campsite and we were greeted to an incredible cloud inversion against the backdrop of Kilimanjaro. We indulged in an early dinner and tried to get some sleep as we would be setting off during the night to hit the summit. I was equally pleasantly surprised and shocked to discover that Barafu camp had Wifi - with only the first 30 minutes being free. Day 5 - 20km - Barafu to Summit - Barafu to Mweka camp - 10 hours 45 mins After a few hours sleep, we got ready to set off from base camp at 12.30am to ascend 1,255m in a mammoth push up the mountain. We were going from 4640m at Barafu Camp to 5895m at Uhuru peak. The initial ascent from the camp up to Stella point was very slow and steep. We could see a trail of torch light from all the other hikers in front of us who had left earlier. I'd say this part was more of a mental struggle as it felt like it went on forever. We were advised to set off wearing all of our layers when we left camp, but this didn't work for me as as soon as we started the ascent I was sweating, so I had to stop to take them off again - which I'm glad I did or else I wouldn't have been able to put any more layers on at the summit to keep warm and I'd have been cold and wet from sweating. We hike at a relatively fast pace and moved pretty rapidly up towards Stella point, passing most of the groups who left before us. Neither of us had had a problem with altitude until this point - I felt overly sleepy and kept wanting to just stop to take a nap whereas Tom was seeing patterns on the rocks and got quite slow and delirious. Nothing too extreme but definitely noticeable. We stopped for a short rest at Stella Point where we had a warm drink. We could see the summit from here so that definitely gave us some motivation and energy to push on and get there. We hit the summit at 6am, just as the sun was coming up and we got the witness sunrise on Africa's highest peak. Luckily we were one of the first groups at the summit and got to experience it before the crowds came and it started to get busy. Take it all in here! As much as you can, the glacier, the summit, the views, the sunrise and the feeling of accomplishment!! You did it!! The summit is bitterly cold and after taking my glove off to take some pictures, I couldn't feel my fingers. As incredible as it is you can't hang around for too long on the summit due to a mix of the altitude and the coldness, so we begun the long descent. Our guides took us a different way which was mainly scree and was a bit of a nightmare on tired legs. We got back to Barafu camp at 8am to have some much needed food and a few hours rest before continuing a further 10km down to Mweka Camp for the night where we had a celebration song and dance with our porters. I hadn't noticed many bugs on the trip but if you were going to get bitten, I think it would be here as the camp is nestled in amongst the trees. Day 6 - 10km - Mweka Camp - Mweka Gate - 2 hours We slept for 10 hours!! Which must have been very much needed after the previous days hike. The final leg of our journey was to descend from Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate. A simple walk in good spirits, passing back through the dense rainforest where we were once again lucky to spot lots of monkeys playing in the tree tops. We caught one final glimpse of Kilimanjaro through the trees and it was time to say goodbye. Upon reaching the final gate you must register your completion and check out with the rangers. You can enjoy a well deserved beer from the bar here. Once back at the hotel we were presented a certificate and some keepsakes from our tour group. TOP TIPS & HELPFUL INFORMATION Food - there will be an assigned chef that brings fresh ingredients up the mountain to cook you breakfast, lunch and dinner. The three meals tended to vary from day to day but consisted of things like Breakfast: porridge, fruits, toast & spread, eggs, sausages, hot drinks Lunch: packed lunches for the first few days, then pastas, toasties, salads, soup Dinner: stews, chicken, meat, pasta, fruits, banana fritters For every mealtime you were served at least two courses. I felt like I ate more here than what I would at home. If you have a sweet tooth, I would suggest taking some sweeties in your backpack with you. Water - you will have the opportunity to fill up your water bottles/hydration packs with fresh water every morning. Our guides provided us with hot water in the morning and when we returned back to camp so we could wash our faces, hands and feet in the basins. Toilets - before we arrived I hadn't really though twice about the bathroom, and expected to do my business outside with a shovel, but in the end we had a porta potty that was carried up the mountain and emptied every day. So basically we had a private poo tent which honestly felt a bit excessive, but it seemed to be a normal thing to have within the guided groups. Some of the campsites along the way had drop toilets which you needed a strong stomach for. There was also some parts of the route that seemed to be popular toilet spots - which resulted in people leaving their dirty tissues & big honking jobbies in some of the most scenic spots on the mountain, which was absolutely disgusting - please do not participate in this. Altitude - they say if you steadily drink lots of water it would help with the altitude, but it was hard to get a happy medium, as this just meant needing to pee all the time. We did take Diamox altitude tablets with us but we ended up not using them, as the guide had advised us against it as we seemed ok. However on the final push to the summit (around about 5500m) Tom hallucinated a bit and was seeing patterns on the ground and I just felt overwhelmed with tiredness and really wanted to take a nap. Neither of us found it overly difficult to breathe at the summit it just seemed to make us go really slowly. ** This was just my experience - altitude effects everyone differently so be prepared for all outcomes. Fitness - We are both pretty fit as we climb mountains at home however I do think this mountain is achievable for all fitness levels - it actually benefits you to go a bit slower. I think anyone who is able to climb hills in their local area and can walk for 8 hours straight should manage it on the fitness side of things. Kit - I absolutely over packed & ended up wearing the same clothes most of the trip (my most comfortable ones). I'd recommend taking something really warm for night time as the temperature really dropped - most mornings there was frost on the tent. Summit night - pack layers and carry them with you. You will sweat loads on the way up but at the top it gets so cold that you will benefit from adding more layers if you want to stay there for any length of time. The temperature was minus 20 on the summit on the night we were there. Also make sure you test your kit out before going - there's no point in putting on your waterproof to discover it isn't actually waterproof once you are there or finding our your boots hurt you after the first day because it's the first time you've worn them. Night entertainment - sometimes you will arrive at the campsite quite early and have the evening to kill. As well as looking around at all the amazing views I would also recommend taking taking something to pass time and keep you entertained - cards, a book, a puzzle book... Showers - be prepared to be smelly! You obviously won't get the chance to shower whilst on your trek and there are no fresh water lakes to dip in. We used baby wipes to stay as fresh as possible. TAKE YOUR RUBBISH - I honestly wish this one didn't need to be said, but there was so much litter on the mountain - it was really sad to see how people can just thoughtlessly disrespect their surroundings like that. There is so much litter left behind, that there are actually teams who litter pick at the campsites. If you take it up, you take it off. Let's be responsible and protect these beautiful places. Tips - a bit of an elephant in the room as there's not really any guidance on what is a substantial amount. I feel like this is a tricky one to get right - we had soooo many more porters (12 in total) than we were expecting so didn't have that much cash on us up the mountain. Thankfully we were able to stop at a cash point on the way back to the hotel. We distributed tips fairly as everyone had worked really hard so we ensured that everyone got the same amount (I think we gave the cook and the guides a bit more). This would obviously be more manageable the larger your group size and if you were doing the trip solo it could quickly become costly as you would still have the same amount of porters. We left any unwanted outdoor gear with the porters as this was very much appreciated. These guys are legends and if you think climbing Kilimanjaro is hard for us imagine how it feels for these guys doing it with all the additional gear. Happy Trekking!! If you've enjoyed reading this, I would appreciate a comment or a share
- Iceland's Golden Circle in One Day. Self Drive Itinerary
When we visited Iceland in September, a visit the the Golden Circle was a must do. But we wanted the freedom to do everything at our own pace, so we decided to hire a car and create our own one day self drive itinerary, which you can follow below. To read about what else we got up to on our trip to Iceland you can read the blog here . What is the Golden Circle? Iceland's Golden Circle is a 190 mile tourist route that covers three main natural attractions - Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir Geothermal Area, and Gullfoss waterfall. The route includes some of Iceland's most famous and breath-taking natural attractions, shows a diverse range of the Icelandic landscapes and can easily be done in one day or broken down into a longer trip. Driving Iceland's Golden Circle in One Day. Self Drive Itinerary Staying in Reykjavic the night before, we get an early start and completed this self-guided tour in a single day, visiting most of the popular spots, and still having ample time to enjoy each location. Almannangja Gorge Our stops were as follows: Thingvellir (Þingvellir) National Park - This was the first stop on our journey and is a magnificent UNESCO World Heritage site where you can stroll between two continents. There are numerous places to discover here, and all the trails are well-maintained, making navigation simple. There are a good few things to see here so expect to spend 1-2 hours here. Entry is free and parking costs around 1000ISK. Almannagjá Gorge - a stroll through Almannagjá gorge is an experience like no other. A scenic stroll that takes you from one continent to another in a matter of minutes, from the North American tectonic plate to the Eurasian. As you descend down into the gorge you will embark on a journey along a gravel trail with towering rock walls on each side where you can see the plates pulling apart from each other. Öxarárfoss Waterfall - found at the end of the gorge, this is a spot that you definitely don't want to miss. It's got a cool mix of history and natural beauty. It's a great place to relax and snap some amazing photos. You may recognize the waterfall from Game of Thrones, which adds to its epic vibe. In the winter the pools can freeze and the waterfall can become an impressive ice sculpture. Drekkingarhylur - is a stunning pond located close to the Öxará River. An oxymoron - a wonderful sight to view but with a hauntingly dark past. The pond was dubbed the Drowning Pool, from the 16th century until 1739, it was the site where many women were drowned as punishment for crimes like adultery and even lying under oath. A shocking reminder of the brutality that women were subjected to over the years. Silfra Fissure - If you're into diving or snorkelling, this place is a must-visit. Even if you don't want to get in the water, you should still check it out. You can see where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates come together. Silfra has the clearest natural freshwater on Earth, with visibility that can reach over 100 meters (300 feet) underwater, making it one of the coolest diving and snorkelling spots around! This is one thing that I wish we had done whilst we were there, as amazing as viewing the fissure was, I would have loved the experience of being in the water and it is something I will add to the top of my list if I return to Iceland. Thingvallavatn Lake - found to the South of the national park, Thingvallavatn is Iceland's largest natural lake covering 32 square miles and is 114 metres deep. There are four species of Arctic Char inhabiting this lake. You can scuba dive at Davíðsgjá ( David's crack) or the Silfra Fissure and fishing trips are possible here. The Geysir Geothermal Area - a paradise of geysirs and hot springs located in Haukadalur valley. In this spot you can catch the Strokkur Geysir shooting boiling water up to 30metres every 8-10 minutes and you can see the king of the Geysirs - the Great Geysir , which is no longer active but could blast boiling water up to about 170 meters high - wow. The Strokkur Geysir goes off most frequently so is perfect for a photo opportunity. An amazing sight, with the smell of sulphur in the air and steam rising from the ground. You'll find fumaroles, bubbling mud pots, boiling hot springs, and colourful minerals everywhere. The place is totally free to visit, but I did feel like I had been robbed after shelling out £32 for two soups at the café. I'd give yourself at least one hour here. Gullfoss Waterfall - also knows as the Golden Waterfall, this is one of Iceland's most famous landmarks. Famous for its massive size and jaw-dropping beauty, making it a must-see spot for anyone visiting the country. Gullfoss tumbles down in two parts, with the first drop around 11 meters and the second an impressive 21 meters into a rugged canyon shaped by nature over thousands of years. On average 100,000 litres of water plunges down into the canyon every second!! There are plenty of spots to soak in the waterfall's power, with well-kept paths and upper and lower viewing platforms that make it easy and safe to explore. This epic location is said to attract 2,000 per day so it can be pretty busy, and make sure to take a waterproof as there is a high chance you will get splashed. Plan to spend at least an hour here taking in the views. Above are the three main stops on the Golden Circle but here are some detour stops we made to make the most of our journey - Flúðir Secret Lagoon - Iceland's oldest swimming pool. It's a natural geothermal spot that's not as crowded as the others because it's a bit off the main path. Mostly locals hang out here, and it's a lot cheaper than the other popular lagoons. It's a natural hot spring in a geothermal area where the water remains at around a cosy 40 degrees throughout the year. The Secret Lagoon has been around since 1891, and you can even enjoy a beer while you're there. Relax whilst surrounded by nature, the steam rising, tiny geysers popping, and bubbling hot pots! Kerid Crater Kerid Volcanic Crater - The fresh minerals and growing plants give it these cool red and green colours. There's a blue lake in the middle that really stands out against the reds and greens. You can stroll along a trail around the top or head down and walk around the lake - both equally as impressive. The parking is free here and there is an entry fee of around 400 ISK to get in. The next two are not part of the Golden Circle but are often combined by some tour groups. They were on the way to our next hotel for the evening so we decided to stop. Definitely worth the detour if you have the time. Standing behind Seljalandsfoss waterfall Seljalandsfoss - this was my favourite waterfall of the trip. You can walk right behind the powerful falling water. It's a great spot to soak in the views of the falls, the lush greenery, and the rugged cliffs. But a heads-up, the area can get pretty wet and slippery, so make sure to wear waterproof clothes and good shoes. Skogafoss - another waterfall on the way to our hotel for the night. It is pretty remarkable to see with a 60-meter drop and 25-meter width. We only had a quick stop here as we had been driving loads & I was all waterfalled out, but if you hang around, you can climb 370 steps to a lookout spot with amazing views of the Skoga River and the surrounding scenery. The Golden Circle is accessible all year round and each season brings different atmosphere. This is a must do for anyone visiting Iceland. I hope my Iceland's Golden Circle in One Day. Self Drive Itinerary has helped you to plan your own trip. As usual any comments likes or shares are hugely appreciated. Happy Adventuring🌟
- Best Things to do in Iceland - The Golden Circle Self-Guided Tour, Reykjavík, Glacier Hikes & Top Tips.
This is all the helpful information I gathered from our trip to Iceland, I hope that this helps you plan your trip to this beautiful country. I’ve split it up into these sections; Reykjavik, The Golden Circle, other cool stuff, and top tips. We went in September found the weather to be pretty good, we had enough daylight hours to get things done. The following is my list of the best things to do in Iceland. Getting Around We picked up a hire car from the airport, and this turned out to be the best option for getting around easily during our trip. Having the freedom to explore at our own pace made the entire experience much more enjoyable. I would advise opting for the maximum insurance coverage when renting a vehicle as the car can easily be damaged by factors that are beyond your control, such as unpredictable weather conditions, stones or debris hitting your vehicle, and extreme winds that can cause your doors to literally blow off. The Golden Circle We completed this self-guided tour in a single day, visiting most of the popular spots, and we appeared to have ample time at each location. Our stops were as follows: Thingvellir (Þingvellir) National Park - A UNESCO World Heritage site where you can stroll between two continents. There are numerous places to discover here, and all the trails are well-maintained, making navigation simple. Almannagjá Gorge - a stroll through Almannagjá is an experience like no other. This gorge, shaped thousands of years ago, is flanked by continental plates on both sides. Öxarárfoss Waterfall - a spot you definitely shouldn't miss. It's got a cool mix of history and natural beauty. The trail there is pretty easy and gives you amazing views of the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. You might recognize the waterfall from Game of Thrones, which adds to its epic vibe. It's a great place to relax and snap some amazing photos. Drekkingarhylur - is a stunning pond located close to the Öxará River. It's a lovely sight, but it has a dark past. Dubbed the Drowning Pool, from the 16th century until 1739, it was the site where many women were drowned as punishment for crimes like adultery and even lying under oath. Silfra Fissure - If you're into diving or snorkelling, this place is a must-visit. Even if you don't want to get in the water, you should still check it out. You can see where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates come together. Silfra has the clearest natural freshwater on Earth, with visibility that can reach over 100 meters (300 feet) underwater, making it one of the coolest diving and snorkelling spots around! The Geysir Geothermal Area - This is the spot where you can catch the Strokkur Geysir shooting up every few minutes and check out the Great Geysir, which is no longer active but at a time could blast boiling water up to about 170 meters high - wow. It's an amazing sight, with the smell of sulfur in the air and steam rising from the ground. You'll find fumaroles, bubbling mud pots, boiling hot springs, and colourful minerals everywhere. The place is totally free to visit, but I did feel like I had been robbed after shelling out £32 for two soups at the café. Gullfoss Waterfall - also knows as the Golden Waterfall, is an absolutely stunning natural sight in Iceland's amazing scenery. It's famous for its massive size and jaw-dropping beauty, making it a must-see spot for anyone visiting the country. Gullfoss tumbles down in two parts, with the first drop around 11 meters and the second an impressive 21 meters into a rugged canyon shaped by nature over thousands of years. There are plenty of spots to soak in the waterfall's power, with well-kept paths and viewing platforms that make it easy and safe to explore. Flúðir Secret Lagoon - Iceland's oldest swimming pool. It's a natural geothermal spot that's not as crowded as the others because it's a bit off the main path. Mostly locals hang out here, and it's a lot cheaper. It's a natural hot spring in a geothermal area in the small village of Flúðir, about 25 km from Geysir. The Secret Lagoon has been around since 1891, and you can even enjoy a beer while you're there. Relax whilst surrounded by nature, the steam rising, tiny geysers popping, and bubbling hot pots! Kerid Crater Kerid Volcanic Crater - The fresh minerals and growing plants give it these cool red and green colours. There's a blue lake in the middle that really stands out against the reds and greens. You can stroll along a trail around the top or head down and walk around the lake. The parking is free here but entry costs around 400 ISK and must be paid to get in. Standing behind Seljalandsfoss waterfall Seljalandsfoss - this was my favourite waterfall of the trip. You can walk right behind the powerful falling water. It's a great spot to soak in the views of the falls, the lush greenery, and the rugged cliffs. But a heads-up, the area can get pretty wet and slippery, so make sure to wear waterproof clothes and good shoes. Skogafoss - another waterfall on the way to our hotel for the night. It is pretty remarkable to see with a 60-meter drop and 25-meter width. We only had a quick stop here as we had been driving loads & I was all waterfalled out, but if you hang around, you can climb 370 steps to a lookout spot with amazing views of the Skoga River and the surrounding scenery. Reykjavík - Iceland's Capital City We dropped our car off at the hotel and decided to explore the capital on foot. This is what we did: try "the best hot dogs in the world" at Baejarins Beztu Pylsur but make sure you try to visit outside of lunchtime to avoid waiting in a huge queue visit Hallgrimskirkja - the tallest church in Iceland, an iconic landmark in Reykjavik watch the sunset at Lake Tjornin - watch the the sky light up fiery colours take a stroll along rainbow street - the lively atmosphere and stunning murals create an enchanting experience for all who wander through visit the monument to the unknown bureaucrat - a tribute that honours the countless individuals who work diligently behind the scenes in the world of administration and governance, often without recognition or acknowledgment for their contributions to society visit Laugavegur - a vibrant main street that serves as the heart of the city, adorned with an eclectic array of colourful street art and bustling with a diverse selection of shops, restaurants, and bars that cater to both locals and tourists alike if you are lucky enough you will be able to catch the northern lights try some Icelandic delicacies at Icelandic street food - you can indulge in a warm soup and if you are brave enough try fermented shark Other Things To Do: Kleifarvatn Lake - on our way from the airport to Reykjavik, we decided to take a little side trip to Kleifarvatn on the Reykjanes Peninsula. It's the biggest lake in the area, going as deep as 97 meters. The mix of dark volcanic rock and bright blue water is absolutely breathtaking, especially with the geothermal steam adding to the view. This detour gave us a taste of Iceland's stunning natural beauty and set the vibe for our adventure. Fatjokul Glacier Hike - a thrilling 5-hour tour across the glacier. Fatjokul translates to "falling glacier," which perfectly describes the dramatic ice chunks breaking off - which we were lucky enough to see whilst we were there. The tour company will provide you with crampons and winter boots if you don't have your own. We were greeted with breath-taking views of the blue and white glacier stretches, framed by rugged mountains. The hike was both refreshing and educational, giving us insights into how the glacier formed, the effects of climate change, and its unique ecosystem. We made our way through deep crevasses, towering seracs, and sparkling ice formations. We were also allowed to drink the fresh glacier water flowing from a hole in the ice - refreshing. The whole day was a thrilling experience but made even better by the fact I found a piece of black obsidian on the ice. Raufarhólshellir, Lava Tunnel - since the weather was rough and the winds made it risky to do stuff outside, we switched up our plans from ice climbing to checking out the Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel. This change let us enjoy the area's cool geological features indoors. The lava tunnel, an amazing result of old volcanic activity, offered us a fun experience. There is a part of the tour where they turn the lights off and you are plunged into complete silence & darkness. Black Beach - Reynisfjara is known for its cool black sand and amazing basalt caves and pillars. The beach is known for being pretty windy, when I went, it was super windy with an amber warning, which made the place feel even more intense with the waves crashing and the black sand swirling around. Just be careful though, because there are sneaker waves that can sneak up and pull you in. If you want to get an idea of the wild weather we experienced have a look here . Reynisfjara Black Beach Top Tips: Look out for Icelandic lava bread, traditionally baked by burying dough in hot volcanic ash. Black in colour, it is unique and flavourful. It reflects the island's geothermal activity and culinary heritage. If you have a long day of exploring make sure you fill up at breakfast as eating out all day can become quite costly. Most hotels offer a buffet style from continental to Icelandic delicacies including fish oil. If you are travelling on a budget it is possible stock up on some shopping at the supermarkets - having the car meant we could get there easily and we made sure we had snacks and bottled water with us in the car. Reynisfjara - Black Beach Iceland is a wonderful place to visit and even although we crammed a lot in I still feel as though we only just scratched the surface. I cant wait to return to this beautiful county to see more. If you have any comments, suggestions or questions please drop them below. And as always any support is appreciated.
- Gran Paradiso Circuit Trek - 4 days of hiking through the Italian Alps
An incredible four day experience rolled into one blog to help you plan and prepare for your hike through Gran Paradiso National Park. I completed this trek in July just before my summit of Gran Paradiso . When Skyhook Adventures invited me to join the Gran Paradiso Circuit Trek, I absolutely jumped at the chance. Skyhook offer adventure trips across the globe and this one was right up my street, the whole thing was seamless and well organised from the start - I would highly recommend checking out their trips on offer. How To Get There - The best airport to fly into is Torino Airport, for me there are no direct flights from Scotland, but I managed to find a simple connecting flight via Frankfurt that still got me there in a timely fashion - the whole journey took under 6 hours. However, Frankfurt is the biggest (and most confusing) airport I've ever been in in my life and due to a delay, I almost missed my second flight, so if you are having to change in Frankfurt, make sure you give yourself enough time. I spent the night in Turin, which is a short journey from the airport and cost €6 on the bus. In the morning I took a metro to the meeting point at a cost of €2. The two meeting points were Turin Centre and Turin Airport or if you had your own transport in Italy you could meet at the starting point at Rhemes-Notre-Dame. For the return home you can either book an evening flight from Torino airport on the day the trek finishes or you can choose to stay a few days in Italy to enjoy some leisure time (I ended up continuing on to summit Gran Paradiso - blog to follow). What I Packed For The Gran Paradiso Circuit Trek- Below is a list of everything I carried with me on the trail. This isn't everything that I took with me on the flight, you were able to leave some bags and belongings in the car. It is advised to take trekking poles with you - I was unable to do so this I only had hand luggage but you will be able to borrow some from your guide. Hiking boots * Socks x 4 Sun Cream Towel Rucksack Underwear Deodorant Swimwear Waterproof trousers and jacket PJs/ something to sleep in Toiletries Dry sacks or bag cover Down Jacket T-shirts x 3 Sunglasses Battery Pack Hiking trousers Jumpers x 2 Medications Tripod Sleeping bag liner** Shorts x 2 Ear plugs!! *The rifugi provide sliders/crocs for wearing inside the huts, so you can save yourself some packing space - there's no need to take shoes for the evening ** There are covers on the beds but it is not advised to sleep in them without anything to cover your body as they likely don't get washed very often and a high number of people are passing through and staying there Accommodation - Turin - I spent the first night in Turin in Hotel Urbani located in Porta Nuova, right by the metro station. This hotel was a great price, it's in the city centre, close to the airport and metro and the staff were incredibly helpful. Rifugio Benevolo 2,285m Really warm showers here - 3€ for 3 minutes, you must buy a token from the bar. There are three showers for all of the guests, so as you can imagine there can be a bit of a queue of people waiting to use them There are also only three of toilets, so if you can I would aim to get there first thing in the morning before they are well used😅 Rooms - the rooms were small and tight, our group was split across two. The rooms have bunkbeds. Here all the rooms were quite close to each other and situated right above the bar so it was a little noisy Bar - €3.50 for a cola. Beers, wines and spirits available No Wi-Fi and no signal, however there is a signal sweet-spot if you walk around to the back on the hut where the little bench is Possibility of marmot and ibex sightings here This one didn't feel quite as remote as the rest of them as it is easily accessible by walking or the road There is a slackline in front of the hut if you fancy testing your skills Rifugio Bezzi 2,284m Huge & loads of marmots outside Free showers- nice & hot but try to get there first and don't take too long in case the hot water runs out The toilets here are mostly drop toilets but there is a seated one upstairs Rooms - each group seemed to be in their own room so all 9 of us were together. It seemed a little quieter as there were different floors and sleeping areas Bar - €5 for a prosecco - winning. And around €3 for a can of fizzy pop Free Wi-Fi but it only worked in the downstairs bar This one looks really impressive from the outside - I think this one was my favourite of them all It is possible to spot the glacier that you were walking alongside earlier that day Rifugio Chalet de l'Epee 2370m - Very close to a farm where you can hear the lovely sound of the cowbells There are a lot of showers here which cost €2, you must pay at the bar but there is no token or time limit (obviously don't take the mick as there is a limited water supply to these places) Drop toilets Rooms - again our group was given our own room at the end of a corridor so it was nice and quiet, but to get there or to the bathrooms we had to walk through another room past people who were sleeping so I was cautious not to disturb them Bar - the prices were pretty much the same for alcohol across all rifugi There is no Wi-Fi or signal here but if you turn right when you come out the front door and take a walk along the path for around 10 minutes, you will find signal For me this rifugio definitely had the most stunning views Overall I would advise that you take some ear plugs if you want a good nights sleep, as there as so many groups there and people moving around during the night, it can be quite noisy. The rifugi provide you with shoes so that you can keep your hiking boots at the door After dinner you will be offered teas, coffees and liquor - I tried genipy one night and boy was it strong Entertainment - most of the rifugi have games there that you can play I think some may take card but I didn't want to risk it so made sure I had cash Food Glorious Food - Considering you are in the middle of nowhere, I found the food to be very substantial along the trek. This is what you can expect: Dinner - we ate dinner in the rifugi each night, and were always provided with at least three courses of tasty and filling food. Dinner was definitely my favourite meal of the day. This is what we had at each rifugio , it will be different from place to place but this is just to give you an idea of the food you can expect. Rifugio Benevolo - a choice of soup or tomato pasta (although they came around offering seconds so you could have had both if you liked), goulash and polenta, chocolate cake Rifugio Bezzi - soup & bread, tomato based pasta, roast beef and potatoes (these were really crispy and so yummy😋) and flan for desert. We were served both starter options here Rifugio Chalet de l'Epee - tomato pasta, vegetable soup and bread, beef with potatoes and fontina cheese (made in Aosta valley) and crème caramel. The trays of food were put on the tables so you could serve yourself The food was always plentiful across the rifugi and nobody in my group seemed to be still hungry after dinner, I was extremely impressed with how they manage to pull it off, considering they have limited resources and can sometimes be feeding up to 60 guests at one time Lunch - In the morning you pick up a packed lunch before leaving the rifugio . This consists of sandwiches, fruit and sometimes a wee sweet treat. You need to take your own lunch with you for the first day as you go straight into the park and won't come across anywhere to get food until you hit the rifugio for the evening. Lunch with a view has a whole new meaning out here. Breakfast - Breakfast is a buffet consisting of breads & spreads, yoghurt, sometimes cakes or biscuits and you could help yourself to teas and coffees. Personally, I struggle with eating breakfast at home so I really struggled to eat enough here Snacks - If you have a bigger appetite or can't resist a snack stop along the way, then I'd suggest you stock up and carry your own with you. Because I struggle with breakfast I picked up a pack of individually wrapped pain au chocolat from the supermarket and they came in really handy around 11am when the hunger from breakfast hit me. If you arrive at the rifugio feeling quite peckish from the days activities, it is possible to buy snacks from the bar - mainly toasties, sandwiches or meat and cheese platter, and most places had chocolate bars and nuts available Dietary Requirements - The rifugi are very accommodating for vegetarians and vegans and try their hardest to provide a good alternative meal, however please remember that these places are very secluded, so the offerings may be very simple and limited. There were two members my group who had dietary requirements - one vegetarian and one vegan. The rifugi really made an effort to accommodate this Gran Paradiso Circuit Trek, Day by Day Diary Day 1 - Rhemes-Notre-Dame to Rifugio Benevolo 10k, 500m elevation The first pick up point was at 9.30am, so after I got ready and double checked my packed rucksack, I grabbed some cash, some snacks from the supermarket & managed to navigate the Italian metro - which was actually really simple. It is around a two hour drive from the airport to the little village of Rhemes-Notre-Dame. The journey gives you a great opportunity to introduce yourself and start to get to know the people in your group, my group consisted of 7 others - most of whom were strangers. Upon reaching the starting car park we set off on the trail at around 12.30pm, stopping briefly at a little coffee shop in Rhemes. The first part of the trek was fairly flat and foresty and before long you come to a clearing in the trees where the emerald waters of Lac Pellaud were glistening in the sun. This was the perfect lunch spot, as we chatted and watched the large fish and ducks swimming in the lake. The second part of the day was a slow and steady uphill climb through alpine meadows & passing beautiful waterfalls - this was where I really started to feel further from civilisation. This part is a little bit steeper over rocky terrain but still fairly manageable. When the rifugio comes into view - wow!! It is a breath-taking sight, our home for the night. We arrived just as the rain started which was careful planning by our wonderful guide Elisabetta, who had been keeping an eye on the weather forecast. Huge shout out to Elisabetta who was great, really friendly and knowledgeable and was able to tell you interesting facts about the geology and vegatation we encountered during our trip. It was quite an experience to see the alps in the rain, as the lush greens stood out against the moody weather giving a very dramatic landscape. And the marmots didn't seem phased by it as we were able to spot some from the hut. This is the first time I'd ever seen a marmot and I was so excited - we don't get anything like that in Scotland. After dinner we finished the evening by playing Jenga and celebrated a successful first day. Day 2 - Rifugio Benevolo to Rifugio Bezzi (Bec de Traversiere optional) 10k 800m ascent & descent (12k 1160m including Bec de Traversiere) After having breakfast we left the hut around 8am - bad rain was due later so we wanted to try to get as much of the hike done as possible whilst it was dry. We set off to a symphony of cowbells from the cows meandering on the steep hill we were about to ascend. The first section of the day takes you up a steep path on a grassy hillside with lots of switchbacks. There are insane views from the hilltop and the hut we had just came from looked miniscule. On the approach to Lago Goletta the path evens out and the terrain dramatically changes from green & grassy to rocky & grey. Lago Goletta is a sight to behold - an alpine lake against the grey snow capped mountains, it is possible to swim here, I went in up to my knees but that was enough - it was icy cold and cold in the air too. The path from here is steep and rocky and there may be some snow patches to cross over until you reach Col Bassac Dere at 3,082m. From here you have the option to continue on to the peak - Becca Della Traversiere. It is possible to wait and enjoy the views if the rest of the group chooses to continue. The journey down from the Col descends over rocky terrain and there is a little rope section to navigate - nothing too extreme. We passed by another beautiful alpine lake and the surrounding area started to make me feel as if I was walking on Mars. It started raining on the way down which did make the scenery a lot more dramatic, but we didn't want to get too wet so for the last push we rushed to get to the rifugio - where I treated myself to a prosecco as this day was quite physically demanding & I was soggy from the rain - it was well deserved. Summiting Becca Traversiere 3334m - most of us were eager to hit the peak and those who chose not to were happy waiting at the col, enjoying lunch and admiring the views. For the rest of us it was a rocky ascent for a further km and 150m to reach the summit. The first part consisted of a gentle incline as you manoeuvred along the scree side of the mountain before reaching a second col type spot. From here is where the steep incline starts and the uphill climb begins over rocky paths and loose debris sections. It was quite exposed in places, but nothing too extreme. It took us around 40 minutes to reach the summit, where the views were incredible. It was a little cloudy so we weren't able to spot any of the iconic mountains but we were able to look down onto the Goletta and Gliairetta glaciers. Day 3 - Rifugio Bezzi to Rifugio Chalet de l'Epee 12k, 850m elevation After breakfast it once again was an uphill push but this one was slightly less steep than yesterdays. The guide will offer you the chance to detour to Lago San Martino where you can go for a dip, we went but only one from the group was brave enough as it was quite a cold morning. It is sometimes possible to see Mont Blanc from here but we had no luck today. Continuing on our journey we approached an alpine meadow with the most amazing views down into the valley! We experienced all kinds of terrain on this day as we continued on over a rocky crossing on the side of the mountain, bridges and a river crossing where we had to carefully navigate before our lunch break. A few switchbacks later and you will reach the highest point of the day where you can see glorious views down across the valley. A rain cloud rolled in but it only lasted a short while. A long descent takes you over a boulder field and through lush green hillside before the rifugio finally comes into view. There is a cow farm near the rifugio , where the combined noise of the cow bells against the mountain backdrop creates a serene and peaceful atmosphere. Day 4 - Chalet l'Epee to Col Fenetre & the descent to Rhemes-Notre-Dame 7.5k, 470m elevation, 1200 descent Our final day begun with a 400m ascent to Col Fenetre - the window between two valleys. This was a fairly gentle ascent which did not get too steep until the end part. The views from the fenetre were unreal - we could see Mont Blanc peeking through the clouds on one side and Gran Paradiso on the other - seeing it's colossal size it was hard to imagine I would be standing on top of it in just a few days. We enjoyed lunch here whilst we soaked up the views and prepared ourselves for the descent. Looking down I couldn't help but think 'how on earth are we getting down there?' but once you are on it, it isn't too bad. It is STEEP and scree in places but the path zig zags, just ensure you take care of your footing. There are two rope sections as you get further down. The first one is pretty simple and the rope provides an additional point of contact. The second is slightly tougher (part of it had came loose from the wall here which didn't help) and at a point you had to turn into the wall and sort of step back. Elisabetta was amazing here at providing encouragement, guidance and ensuring everyone managed safely. It was a bit of a fun section to break up the descent. Once we were down from the steep art there was a meadow to stop for lunch where we saw ibex and gazed with achievement at the steep descent we had just completed. The final part of the journey back to the car continued under the warm sunshine through gorgeous alpine meadows alive with flowers, butterflies, crickets and bees. This was beautiful and I felt myself getting quite emotional and full of gratitude over just how much of marvellous journey this had been. Once again, thank you skyhook and thank you Elisabetta for making this a magical experience. Top Tips - Entertainment - there are cards and various other games like boggle and jenga at the huts, but you may want to take a book or puzzles or a journal for something to keep you entertained in your free time in the evenings Tipping - although you are not obliged to, we felt that our guide had done an outstanding job so we decided to put some money together and give a combined tip as a thank you. We each put in €30 but there was no pressure if some wanted to give less or more Cash - you should carry enough cash on you to buy drinks and snacks at the refugi - other than this you won't really need it Water - I carried a 1.5 litre bottle with me and it was plenty for me. You can fill up from the rifugi and there are also little water troughs along the way with lovely fresh water from the mountains Going Solo - I know the thought of signing up for a group trip where you don't know anyone can be a daunting thought but it is so worth it, and you will probably find that the people on your trip are very like-minded 😊 It is possible to book on in groups too The end of a wonderful four days trekking through the Gran Paradiso National Park in the Italian Alps. If you have found this helpful and enjoyed reading this, any comments or shares are very helpful. I hope this has inspired you to one day embark on your own hike in the Italian Alps
- Summiting Gran Paradiso, a 4061m alpine mountaineering experience in the Italian Alps
Gran Paradiso was my first ever 4000m alpine summit (I have previously summited Kilimanjaro but this wasn't technical) and what an incredible mountain to start on. I have most definitely caught the bug and will be looking to climb further mountains in the Alps in the future - stay tuned. Before embarking on this journey I spent the previous four days completing the Gran Paradiso Circuit Trek as a warm up. My trip was organised by Roberto at Trekking Alps - you should check him out for some exciting hiking trips to spend your time in the Alps. What is Gran Paradiso? Gran Paradiso is a mountain that stands at 4061m in the Italian Alps, and is the tallest mountain located solely in Italy. The whole hike took us two days and this epic peak is known as one of the more straightforward 4000m mountains in Italy that you can summit. Saying that, it is helpful if you have some winter mountaineering experience under your belt as this will be an alpine experience crossing glaciers, requiring ropes and with some exposed scrambling sections closer to the summit. When to climb Gran Paradiso? It is best to climb between June and September, as the weather is more favourable then and the alpine huts are open. What you will need: harness crampons (mine were provided by the guide as I couldn't carry them with me) boots (doesn't need to be winter as long as they are crampon compatible) poles suitable clothing and layers (it may start off warm when you are leaving the car park but the summit will be cold) down jacket waterproofs (jacket & trousers) sleeping bag liner headtorch - it is advisable to take one although we didn't really need ours as the morning light was beginning to break through A lot of other groups had helmets and ice axes - our guide carried the ice axe and crevasse rescue kit and helmets aren't deemed 100% necessary - but that is very much down to the individual and group leader. Day 1 of Summiting Gran Paradiso Around about midday I met up with Roberto (the legend who pulled this all together), Michele (our alpine guide) and their two friends Frisco & Allesandro in Aosta and from here we drove on to Pravieux, Valsavarench to start the hike. This is the most popular starting point and you can hike to either of the rifugi from here. We were heading for Rifugio Chabod . After a quick gear check, we set off from the car park at around 3pm and made our way up through a forest which was pretty steep with lots of switch backs. The ascent through the forest was hot and the sun was beating down. After about 45 minutes of walking we reached an opening where there was a building of some kind and a water trough where we could refill our bottles with fresh water from the mountains. We continued on our journey and before long we could see the north face of Gran Paradiso towering in the distance - the excitement was really starting to build. We finally reached the rifugio at around 5pm which was a very welcoming site, we got settled and treated ourselves to some beer. You can read more about what the rifugio was like here . The evening consisted of discussing tomorrows adventure, getting to know each other, a filling three course meal, a few games of Chinese checkers and cards. Once darkness fell we took in a few last glimpses of the mountain under the stars and set off to bed at around 10pm knowing we had an early rise and huge day ahead the next day. Over the course of the day we went from 1,850m above sea level to 2,700m at the rifugio . Overall, a pretty straightforward and not too physically demanding day. Day 2 of Summiting Gran Paradiso We had planned that a 5am breakfast would give us plenty time to reach the summit and safely descend from the mountain and across the glaciers - as the day goes on and the sun gets hotter there is a risk of the snow melting making a more dangerous glacier crossing. We left the rifugio at 5.30am under the moonlight for our summit push (although I believe some other groups chose to set off even earlier). It was only necessary to use our head torches for around 15 minutes before the morning light was sufficient to turn them off. A well maintained hiking path assists you to ascend a moraine ridge - this looked a lot steeper from a distance than it was when we were on it (I was out of breath just looking at it 😅). We stopped just before the Glacier del Laveciau to put on our crampons before traversing the glacier and navigating around crevasses - sometimes crossing them via snow bridges, which were built from packed frozen snow allowing you to cross over the middle of the glacier with holes at either side. This was something I had never done before and was equally daunting and exciting. You could see that some of the crevasses were just newly filled with a fresh dusting of snowfall, but underneath this would be a huge plunging hole. Great care had to be taken here to not tread somewhere we shouldn't. From here it was up and up, making sure our crampons were gripping to the icy glacier underfoot. Finally we reached the Schiena d'Asino "the donkeys back" which was a sort of plateau before the final ascent - I felt like part of the hike leading up to here went on forever, I actually found this the hardest bit. I remember feeling tired and my legs were just done and breathing was a bit tough - not so much because the altitude just cause I'm unfit tbh 😅. The weather was a bit ropey on the donkeys back, visibility was low and we were getting battered by the cold. We stopped for a quick snack and to regain energy before pushing on. From here it was only about 200m more to reach the summit, it was really exciting whilst we were going up and passing everyone coming down who had already summited. You could almost feel their elation. The route continues up a steep exposed slope towards the ridge. There is one final glacier crossing which was pretty simple when we did it but our guide did tell us that sometimes very early or late in the season a ladder is required to cross here. We kept our crampons on for the final rocky scramble, finally climbing metal rungs that made a ladder in the face of the rock. This last 60m section to the top was my favourite - it was really exciting with some pretty hairy exposure and rope sections for which you need basic climbing skills. After the final pull up from the ladder we had finally reached the summit which was marked with a statue of the Madonnina - signifying the mountains importance to Italy. We had made it wooohoooo! To descend from the summit you had to cross probably the most narrow and exposed part of the day but there are fixed anchors for you to rope into - now for some reason I had got into my head about this from watching videos and reading blogs but on the day it didn't phase me at all. Just keep your cool and you will breeze it! As we reached this part the clouds that were hanging over us lifted into beautiful blue skies and we were treated to a panorama of the surrounding alps. When we reached the summit there were no queues (which I had previously read about causing a bit of a problem) so maybe we just got lucky and we got there at about 10am - around 4.5 hours after leaving the rifugio. The descent saw us taking the other route down and passing Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele (most of the time you will ascend & descend via the same route). I feel like we got to the rifugio pretty quick as spirits were high and there was even some snow sliding (safely) on the way down. We took a break here for some lunch, well deserved beers and a rest. I tried Italian crispella which is very similar to lasagne. This rifugio was super busy as I believe it is popular with day hikers as well as those staying overnight to summit Gran Paradiso. The descent from here was pretty simple but to me it seemed like it took FOREVER, I think it's because it had been such a long day and there was so many switch backs. But the stunning scenery along the way made up for it. We finished at La Breuill where there was a large mountain hut (and more beers) before Michele hitched a lift to the start point to retrieve the car. Top Tips & Questions Training - you should be physically fit and mountaineering experience would be beneficial. A good level of fitness is required as the summit morning is long. Altitude - I felt completely fine but I guess some people may experience a shift in the altitude and notice a small change in their breathing as the air becomes thinner. Staying in the hut the night before is important to allow your body to acclimatise. Guiding - whilst this mountain can be done independently, I would highly recommend getting a guide who is knowledgeable of the area and of the movements of the glaciers Staying in the Rifugio - I believe both rifugi to be fairly similar so this information should cover both The rifugio is around 50 euros per night which includes a 3 course meal and breakfast 3 course meal - soup, pasta, a meat dish and desert (I had a crème caramel) there is limited signal but it can be found by walking a short distance It slept around 70 people over two floors so it can be pretty busy and noisy you will be sharing a room with numerous groups so take ear plugs the rifugi on this route are extremely hospitable you will be given shoes to wear inside and must leave your dirty boots at the door there are games to play for evening entertainment Where To Stay Before Your Hike? I'd recommend staying in Aosta Valley or near to there, I stayed at Villa Kate just outside Aosta. After having just come off the Gran Paradiso Circuit Trek , I decided I needed a few rest days and this was the perfect place. Only a 20 minute walk to Aosta - which is a lovely place to spend a day. You can read about things to do in Aosta here. And with that I've reached the end of my blog. I hope I've given you a good insight into what summiting Gran Paradiso is like. As always if you have any questions or feedback, please leave a comment below and any shares or likes are appreciated. Happy Adventuring 🌄











