Search Results

This was my first time visiting this incredible part of Scotland without it being a flying visit just to catch the nearby ferry. I really enjoyed exploring a new area and I was blown away by the dramatic cliffs - the coast here reminds me a lot of the Irish coastline - there are so many similarities between the two. The following information on how I spent my time exploring the South West of Scotland. Where To Stay Coorie Retreats Hot Tub at Coorie Retreats If you're looking for an incredible luxury glamping experience then Coorie Retreats is the perfect place. Nestled in between Portpatrick and Stranraer this place has everything for some well deserved relaxation after a long day of exploring. We stayed here for two nights and could have easily stayed more, the hosts really went the extra mile with extra little touches to make your stay special. The cabins come with a wood fired hot tub, pizza oven, outdoor BBQ system, outdoor cinema and a wood burner it is certainly somewhere to get cosy - and they are dog friendly, what more could you want. But don't just take my word for it - check them out here . Things To Do Watch the Sunset at Portpatrick Harbour Portpatrick Sunset I was on my way to Lidl to get supplies for the cabin when I saw the sky light up orange in my rear view mirror, I quickly about turned and headed down to the harbour in Portpatrick. The sunset was glorious and the waves smashing against the rock formations were mesmerising, I could have sat there for hours watching. I could literally see Ireland across the water. Fun fact - this is also the starting point for the Southern Upland Way - a 214 mile trail from coast to coast starting in Portpatrick and finishing in Cockburnspath in the east of Scotland. This takes around 12-15 days and am I now tempted to do this one day? Yes... Yes I am. Galloway Forest Park  The largest forest park in the UK, you could literally spend days exploring here and still have so much to see, but unfortunately I didn't have days so I opted for these which were all in the same section of the park that I visited. This part was about an hours drive from Stranraer. Bruce's Stone Bruce's Stone - a memorial stone to Robert the Bruce commemorating his victory over the English. With stunning views down to Loch Trool this spot is a great place to visit. You can park right beside this in the Upper Bruce Stone car park - DG8 6SU. The Merrick - a wee Corbett and the highest mountain in southern Scotland. A 13km out and back trail that will take you through some incredible scenery. This should take about 4-6 hours, please make sure you are properly equipped and you can find the route here . Buchan Burn - Follow the path for the Merrick for about twenty minutes and it will lead up past the falls. Further up the route before you turn off for the ascent there are great dipping spots. Top tip - the park is great for stargazing on a clear night as there is no light pollution here. Dunskey Castle & Coastal Route Dunskey Castle looking eerie You can park at the harbour in Portpatrick and walk from here. It's a charming fishing village with a few bars. The coastal walk takes you up steep stairs and across a wooden bridge where you are towering over the sea cliffs - a thrilling sight to see the gulls swooping underneath you into the cliffs. On a clear day, you can even see all the way over to Ireland Getting to the castle & back takes around an hour but you can continue the walk around the coast using this route .  Dunskey Castle My favourite spot on this walk is Dunskey Castle, the ruins of a 16th century castle that is said to be haunted. The castle is still in pretty good condition and is sturdy enough to explore with care, you can venture into the ruined rooms in what would once have been a spectacular building. You can even go down to the cellar where the pigeons might make you jump out your skin with fright as you walk to each new room. You can see how glorious this must have been back in the day. The castle is rumoured to be haunted by a nurse maid, piper, jester and a hairy man - quite the crew. I swear I caught a ghost in a video on my phone - haters will say it was dust. To read more about the best castles to explore in Scotland , check out my blog. Mull of Galloway   & Gallie Craig Gallie Craig Around a 45 minute drive from Portpatrick/Stranraer. A lighthouse stands tall on what is the most southern town in Scotland. The exhibition & café were both closed whilst we were there but on a normal day you would be able to take a tour of the lighthouse. This is a great spot for wildlife watching - dolphins, porpoises, whales & basking sharks have all been spotted here.  Gallie Craig   is named as the most southernly point of Scotland. The epic cliff drop views here are something to behold. When you are here a sign shows that you are almost an equal distance between Lands End & John o groats. And a 'short' 2800 mile journey to Senegal where the gannets migrate in the winter. This is definitely worth a visit for the views alone. Dunskey Glen Access to this walk through the estate is only open from March to Oct, although you can join this on to the cave walk below and loop through the estate. This is a lovely walk along a peaceful woodland trail over wooden footbridges and into the glen. This walk will take you around 1-2 hours. Ouchtremachain Cave S tart your adventure at Portpatrick harbour and take the steep path up to the clifftop, following the signs for the Southern Upland Way. You'll come across a cove with a cave in the cliffside. Local legend has it that parents used to bring sick kids to the cave for healing. They’d bathe them under the waterfall and leave some money on an altar inside, hoping for a cure. The next cove, Port Cale, is a historical gem where the first telephone cables between Scotland and Ireland were laid. Port Logan There wasn't a huge amount to do here but it does have a beautiful beach that goes on for miles and an old lighthouse that is worth seeing. I hope you have enjoyed reading my blog - if you have any suggestions, feedback or even just want to leave a nice supportive comment then please do. Feel free to check out my other blogs about exploring Scotland.

After spending some time in the beautiful Cappadocia, my flight home was going to be via Istanbul so I thought it would be rude not to check it out whilst I was there. If you would like to read about what I got up to in Cappadocia click here. I had about 48 hours to spare, so here's what I did and what I wish I could've done with more time. As usual, I didn't plan any of this in advance, but luckily I met a friendly local lady on the metro who shared some great tips with me. Getting There I was already in Turkey, so I just hopped on a flight straight to SAW for just £87. Getting out of the airport is super easy, and there's a metro connection right from the terminal. You'll need to grab a card from a machine, kind of like an oyster card, and then top it up – this card will be a game-changer for your whole trip. It works on almost all types of transport in the city (except for taxis), making it super easy to get around by bus, metro, or even the numerous ferries. The transport system here is seriously impressive. Where to Stay I ended up staying in Sirkeci (old town), which was pretty busy and full of tourists, with lots of shops and restaurants. The buildings looked a bit old and worn out, but the accommodation was quite cheap. It was definitely a popular spot, which actually made me feel a lot safer as a solo traveler. However, if I had met that lady earlier, I might have stayed in Pera/Beyoğlu as she recommended - when I visited there, it seemed really nice and more modern. To do Galata Tower is super easy to reach via the metro, and you have the option to head up the tower for some amazing views of the city. It'll set you back about €30, but just a heads up, the lines can get pretty long. Sunset on Galata Bridge The Galata Bridge in Istanbul is famous for offering panoramic views of the Bosphorus. Visitors can stroll from one side to the other, enjoy a coffee at one of the cafes underneath, and admire local fishermen as they cast their lines into the water. This iconic bridge is a hot-spot location for wedding photos, I saw around ten couples getting their pictures there in the short time I was there. Bosphorus Tour If you're looking for an awesome way to soak in Istanbul's beauty, then hop on the ferry ride up the Bosphorus. You will see the city from a whole new angle and cross between two continents. If you fancy and your budget allows then you can get a private boat charter, but I chose to go for the public ferry instead. It's super cheap at just 200TL (£5/€6), and it's a more authentic and budget-friendly way to enjoy this iconic journey. It can get a little crowded, but grab a seat by the side for the most epic views of Istanbul's skyline. Plus, you'll get to learn more about the sites with the onboard tannoid system giving you information on the city's history. As you sail across the Bosphorus, you'll see this cool mix of old and new – mosques towering next to modern skyscrapers. The trip lasted around two hours and it was a brilliant way to spend part of the day. Grand Bazaar & Spice Bazaar When you visit the Grand Bazaar, you'll be blown away by the tons of shops taking over the little alleys, each with its own cool stuff to check out. It feels a bit chaotic at first, with vendors trying to catch your eye and show off their goods. But that's all part of the experience of the bazaar. It's a dream for bargain hunters, you can grab some awesome souvenirs and gifts to take home. On the flip side, the Spice Bazaar is an experience for the senses. As soon as you walk in, you're hit with a mix of smells from all the spices, teas, and sweets on display. Strolling through the Spice Bazaar isn't just about shopping; it's like a journey for your senses, where you can discover new flavours and dive into the tasty traditions of the area. Each stall has its own story to tell, giving you a taste of the diverse and flavourful world of Turkish cuisine.   Visit Kadikoy - Asian Side Once again, the trusty ferry boat took me to my destination. As soon as you set foot in Kadikoy, you'll be drawn in by all the amazing fresh seafood vendors lining the streets. Kadikoy is buzzing with life, with plenty of bars offering great deals, making it a cool and lively area to check out. Whether you're into happy hours, cosy pizza places, hip burger joints, or authentic sushi spots, you'll find a wide range of delicious options in Kadikoy. I thought that the pricing here seemed a bit cheaper than I had noticed in other areas. This place has a really vibrant atmosphere. Visit Beyoglu I hopped on the Tünel funicular from Karakoy, the second oldest underground train ever, which was a pretty cool way to get there. When I got to Beyoglu, it was buzzing with life and seemed like a great place to grab a drink and do some people-watching. They had some popular stores like Vans, Puma, and Colombia. Clementine Patisserie is located here and does the most amazing frozen fruit juice which were a welcomed find on such a hot day.  I really wish I could've stayed in this area longer. Galataport A cool waterfront complex that let's you break away from the busy city, giving you a mix of chilled and relaxing vibes. You'll find chic shops and yummy restaurants here. Grab a coffee or pastry from Sagra Café or Divan Patisserie and enjoy the waterside view, or stroll along the promenade. And don't forget to go up to the rooftop bar for epic views of the city skyline and the water. Galataport is a must-visit for those looking for a touch of sophistication and charm. I would also recommend visiting the streets nearby (Hoka Tahsin street) as they are really trendy and have lots of quirky bars. Mosques  - On this trip I personally didn't have enough time to visit and go inside but I was lucky enough to pass Hagia Sofia and the Blue mosque and admiring them from the outside is equally as breath-taking. Boat Trip to Balat Jump on the ferry boat to Balat - a must visit destination for those looking for something a little different. There is a very arty vibe here with the colourful houses, cute cafes and and historic vibes. See if you can find the street with the hanging umbrellas. Istanbul Museum of Modern Art If you are looking for something a bit different, the MOMA offers a unique cultural experience. Located at Galataport on the Bospherous, you can explore the collections of paintings, sculptures, installations, and multimedia exhibits. The museum has a viewing terrace for incredible views across the city. The entry fee of 650TL. Recommendations for places to eat Around Sirkeci, it felt pretty hectic with folks trying to drag you into their restaurants without giving you a chance to check out the menu. Still, I did get to enjoy a delicious Adana Kebab in a restaurant close to my hotel despite all that. Here are some of the hidden gems I discovered throughout the city: Clementine Patisserie - best for drinks & brunches. Located in Beyoglu. I only had a few of the frozen juices but they were incredible and from what I saw the lunches looked great. This is a very Instagram worthy spot. Dönerci Engin'in Yer  - best for street kebabs, visit before 3pm. Located in Pera Ozsut Cafe - breakfast spot, Located in Beyoglu next to Tunel.  Antiochia  - restaurant near Beyoglu - good for a kebab. Pandeli Restaurant - located on the way into spicy bazaar. Bit more expensive, but a good recommendation if you are looking for a nice treat.  Pera Palace Hotel - traditional afternoon tea in a luxury setting. Overall Istanbul is a wonderfully vibrant city to visit. I hope this guide will assist you in planning the perfect trip. If you would like to read about what I got up to in Cappadocia click here. Or for any of my other adventures my blogs can be found here .

Having Cappadocia on my bucket list for quite some time, I decided to take the plunge and embark on a solo trip in August 2024. This guide details my personal approach, what I could have improved, and invaluable tips. I actually didn't have anything booked and basically winged it as I went along. Pre-booking would probably be a lot more cost effective and less stressful but also just know that it is possible if you are a scatter brain like myself. I stayed for three nights and I was satisfied that I managed to squeeze enough in. Truthfully, I was ready to leave by this point as I struggled to do things during the day - it was so unbelievably hot when I was there that I was just slothing around like a big slug all day and I'm not too good at sitting still. However if you are looking for a relaxing trip then you may want to consider staying longer. If you would like to read about what I got up to in Istanbul click here. Flights So I left everything pretty last minute, even booking my flight home the day before I left Istanbul. But if you plan ahead, you can find some pretty cheap flights to Istanbul SAW airport. From there, you can easily catch a flight to either Kayseri (about an hour away from Cappadocia) or Nevsehir (around 40 minutes away). I landed in Kayseri and then tried taking the public bus to Goreme - to be honest, it was a long and hot journey. I'd recommend just taking a taxi from the airport instead, as it's quicker, more comfortable & not that costly. I flew back from Nevsehir because the flight times to Istanbul were better for me. The airport is small, but that's great because it's super quick to navigate through security and reach your gate since everything is so close together. Accommodation Choosing to stay in Goreme was perfect for me. It's surrounded by the cool fairy chimneys and caves, plus it's super close to bars, restaurants, tourist attractions and shops – perfect for first time visitors. After looking at multiple options online I decided to stay at Elite Cave Suites and it was a great decision! I bagged a queen room with a balcony view at an amazing price. The hotel has a balcony spot for watching hot air balloons and seeing the town light up at night. Bonus - the hotel had cute kittens nearby and a very friendly dog who liked to visit the reception area. The staff here were extremely helpful and friendly. Activities Sunset Horse Ride I last-minute booked this trip on my first night, around an hour before I was due to be picked up. I initially struggled finding an available spot but I persisted in visiting different travel operators until I scored a space with Tripster Travel who provided a brilliant service. It cost me around £35 for a two-hour adventure, and they made sure I got smoothly picked up from my hotel and taken to Goreme horse ranch. The horseback ride through Rose Valley to the sunset viewpoint was absolutely magical, with stunning views of the town glowing in the golden light. Despite the crowds from different tour groups, it was truly an unforgettable experience. Take a Balloon Ride I managed to make this booking the night before the trip for about £70 (after a little comparison shopping), which I think was pretty lucky since someone else I chatted with later in the week got charged £150! Balloon rides always kick off at sunrise, so get ready to get out of bed early - I got picked up at 4.15am. Sometimes they can be cancelled due to rubbish weather, so I'd recommend booking it for one of the first days of your trip just in case. That way, if the weather's not great, you'll maybe have time to reschedule. I got picked up by the tour operator and taken to the balloon launch site where we got to see them getting set up - it was truly an awesome sight watching the balloons inflate one by one before we hopped on board. The baskets were massive, fitting about 25 people. We soared up to around 1000ft, taking in the breath-taking view of the village below and the sky filled with other balloons - must've been around 150 up there in total. We spent around an hour in the air, and it was worth every penny. Once back on solid ground, they gave us a certificate and some champagne (non-alcoholic - tasted like Red Bull). The company I flew with was Istanbul Balloons , and their guides were super helpful the whole time. An experience I'll never forget. Watch the Sunset I was really lucky to have booked a hotel that was up high and had a viewpoint across the town so I could watch the sun set from the comfort of my own balcony. If this isn't an option for you then y ou can go up to the "highest point" which was super close to my hotel but it seemed to be pretty busy (there was a queue when I walked around the corner.) There is also a 20TL entry fee to this particular viewpoint - so for me in this instance my hotel was the winning choice. There are plenty of spots near Goreme to catch a stunning sunset, a like the panoramic view point at Love Valley or Red valley. If you're staying longer it might be worth exploring these different options. Wake up early to watch the balloons in flight Getting up early to catch the balloons from your balcony is such an amazing experience. You can see them gliding through the town, sometimes coming so close overhead that it feels like they might crash into the buildings. It's pretty awesome to watch them all up in the sky, giving you a whole different vibe from being inside one of them. If you don't have a balcony view, no worries - just head to the highest point or a panoramic spot like I mentioned earlier for a great alternative. Another cool idea is to visit the spot where the balloons take off. You'll be right there as they prepare for flight and lift off right above you. It's a fantastic experience! Visit Love Valley Around a 30-minute walk from Goreme or just a quick 5 minutes in a taxi, Love Valley is totally free to visit. The valley got its name from the rock formations that look erm... a bit phallic - they're quite a sight to see. Besides that, there are cool hiking trails, caves, and more sights to check out. I'd suggest hiking through the valley; you'll stumble upon Keles café tucked away in the middle, a real lifesaver on a scorching day. They serve up fresh lemonade, beers, and water, and you can chill in the shade for a bit - a hidden gem. There is also the option to go up to the Love Valley viewpoint at the top, where you can grab lunch at the café, and snap some Instagram-worthy pics. Top tips & other fun activities If your hotel doesn't have a pool as mine didn't, you can find some pools that are open to the public in other hotels (obviously you should buy drinks etc). I used my hotels sister chain and I've never been so thankful for that cold water in the 33 degree heat. There are so many other activity options in and around Goreme but I guess it just depends on your interests and how you wish to spend your time. A few alternative options for you to consider on your trip are: Taking a Turkish bath - there are lots of places you can do this here, this just isn't something I think I would personally enjoy. A sunset buggy ride - for me it was this or the horses and I love horses so that won. Visit all the different valleys - they all have different unique features and are worth a visit in their own right. Visit the open air museum - a large collection of monasteries and cave churches. I hope this helps you to plan your stay in Cappadocia. For me it was now time to head off to Istanbul, you can read all about my trip here.

A van trip to explore the best of Ireland has always been on my to do list, so after a family bereavement I thought f*ck it, and I hopped on the ferry to see just what the Emerald Isle had in store. I took the ferry from Cairnryan to Belfast, the return ferry ticket for one passenger and a campervan cost approximately £300 and the journey lasted just over 2 hours. Alternatively you can take the Ferry to Larne which is around 30 minutes north of Belfast. This blog covers my experiences on this trip. My goal was to explore the most picturesque and stunning locations while bypassing the cities, as I had visited them previously. However, you can customize your itinerary according to your preferences. I combined parts of the Causeway coastal route with the Wild Atlantic Way over the space of a week in November. The Causeway Coastal Route spans 115 miles along the coastline of Northern Ireland with a number of interesting stops along the way - you could easily do this over a few days taking in many of the different sights and activities. On the other hand, the Wild Atlantic Way is an extensive route over 1500 miles with many of the main stopping points being really far away from each other (sometimes requiring a two hour drive). I made it down as far as Clifden in County Galway before making the lengthy return journey back to get the ferry. The dark winter nights meant I had limited daylight hours to see and do things which I tried to make the most of instead of driving all day. Consequently, I felt that the Wild Atlantic Way was a bit too much driving for me at this time but I will definitely be back to pick up where I left off maybe next summer when the days are longer. It is also worth mentioning that I found places to sleep for the night in the campervan by using Park for night. This gives you a selection of paid campsites and free park up spots but if you use one of these then don't be a meathead - be respectful, leave no trace and take your rubbish with you!!! My chosen stopping points: The Causeway Coast & Northern Ireland Carrickfergus Castle - This medieval castle was my first stop on the route after getting off the Ferry. I didn't go in but I walked around the area to stretch my legs and admired the view from outside. The entry fee is £6 to explore the castle from inside. Blackhead Lighthouse - Built in 1902 you can take a short hike up to this historical landmark. The hike is just under 3 miles (4km), around an hour and it takes you on a scenic walk along the coast, past some caves and up 100 steps to reach the lighthouse. From here you have stunning views across the Irish sea. The Gobbins Cliff Trail  - a fun day out along the cliffs of the coast. The Gobbins path was originally opened in 1902 and then restored in 2015, you can still see traces of the original cliff path and hear all about how it was constructed. The trail takes you through a series of tunnels, bridges, and pathways that have been carefully carved into the rock, providing an exciting experience for anyone. The tubular bridge and the cave that you go through were probably my highlights of the trail. In the summer the cliffs are full of birds including puffins, I could still spot their nests although the birds are no longer around. We were lucky enough to spot a friendly seal popping his head up from the water. The cost of the excursion was £21 for adults, helmets are provided as a necessity in case of banging your head or falling rocks and you must wear hiking boots and if you don't have any with you then don't worry - you can rent them for a fiver (£5). The route can be quite slippy and there's a steep hill to climb on the way back to the van. The Black Arch - This one isn't so much of a stop but instead the beginning of a scenic drive along the Antrim coast. A lot of people choose to pull in at a layby to stop to take photos of the iconic arch (just don't stand on the road). Torr Head Drive & View Point - a scenic detour and completely worth it. If you make the short steep incline to the viewing point you will have incredible views. This is the closest point to Scotland in Northern Ireland and they even say you can see over to Mull of Kintyre on a clear and bright day (disclaimer - it was neither clear or sunny when I went but the views were incredible nonetheless.) There are ruins here of an old lookout station, you can use the old rusty ladder to climb up to the rooftop for better views although the inside of the building is pretty wrecked and has graffiti and couple of beer bottles (think Banksy gone rogue.) The road to get there is long and windy, and make sure you are ok with steep inclines and heights. I came face to face with a bin lorry taking up all the road & had to squeeze past in a campervan which was a struggle. Kinbane Castle - my favourite stop on the route so far, this is one you should definitely make time to visit. When you start walking down the steps and the view of the castle comes into view, I was completely blown away by it's beauty. The ruins are perched on a cliff edge overlooking the Atlantic ocean and the views are breath-taking. You can explore the ruins and even hike up to the furthest point of the cliff edge (just be careful in poor weather as it is pretty narrow.) There are 140 steep steps down (and a bit of stinker on the lungs on the way back up) but it is completely worth it. Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge - another favourite of mine, this made me grin from ear to ear from the exhilaration and the sheer beauty of the views around me. If you want to cross the bridge it will cost you £15.50 for an adult ticket, which is a bit costly but I really do think it is worth it. You will then embark on a short walk along a coastal path with views to die for for around 20 minutes before reaching the bridge. You may need to queue for a short while as only a limited amount of people are allowed on the bridge at any one time. The crossing is 30 metres above the rocks and crashing waves below and 20 metres in length to get to the other side and to the island that was once a hotspot for salmon fishing. I won't lie I could absolutely not look down on the way over and you can feel the bridge moving but on the way back I put my brave pants on and looked over the side and I am so glad I did. Isn't is crazy to think that back in the day the fishermen would cross an early version of this bridge with only one rope for a single handrail and carrying all of their equipment and let me tell you this bridge swings in the wind!! So I can only imagine what it was like back then. The Giants Causeway - aargh I hate saying this but truthfully I was really underwhelmed on my visit. Maybe I don't know what I was expecting but in my head I had kind of thought it would be huge towering basalt columns, something a bit like Fingal's Cave on Staffa but it's really tiny. Don't get me wrong the formations of the stacked rocks are cool and I loved watching the waves crashing against the rocks but I just thought it would be more. My highlights were definitely walking up to the giants organ, the amphitheatre viewpoint and if you can hike the steep path up to the cliff top the views are incredible. Please don't let me opinion stop you from going to see for yourself. I didn't actually pay for the causeway as it isn't required to access it, it only costs £10 to park in the lower car park near the railway and is only a short walk up from there. I didn't use the café on site or the visitor centre so I can't comment on these but you have the option to access these for an additional charge. Dunluce Castle - a quick pitstop here as the sun was setting to admire the castle ruins on the clifftop. The castle was closed for the day when I was passing however during opening hours it is £6 entry to the ruins and I absolutely would have done this if I had got there earlier. Portstewart Strand - a beautiful long beach with lots of swimmers and dog walkers. I stayed near here so visited for my morning walk and ended up chatting to a lovely bunch of swimmers and having an impromptu jump in the sea with them which was thrilling as the waves are pretty big and it was rather cold. On a nice summers day I imagine this beach would be incredibly busy and I could see why as it is gorgeous. Parking is literally on the golden sands of the beach. This was my final stop on The Causeway Coast before continuing on to The Wild Atlantic Way but the following two are on neither of the coastal trails but worth the drive from here or Derry (about an hour and 40 minutes.) These can also be squeezed in on the West Atlantic way as they are only a short detour from Leitrim and just across the border in Northern Ireland. Marble Arch Caves Cuilcagh Boardwalk - a popular boardwalk trail in County Fermanagh right next to the border into ROI. The walk is 6.8 miles and will take around 3 - 4 hours to walk along the wooden pathway to Cuilcagh mountain. You can reach the summit of the mountain by taking the "Stairway to Heaven", a steep staircase all the way to the top. The boardwalk is suitable for anyone who loves an outdoors adventure. Marble Arch Caves - situated five minutes away from the Cuilcagh boardwalk this exciting tour takes you down into the 11km long cave. It's the perfect thing to do on a rainy day and at a cost of only £15 it was definitely worth it, also it wasn't busy at all when I went so I actually ended up with a private tour for just me. The guides are really knowledgeable and it is interesting to see all the formations in the cave including the 10,000 year old stalactites and insect fossils. If you are lucky and the weather is on your side you will get to take the underground boat tour through the caves but alas I was not lucky - maybe next time. The Wild Atlantic Way I drove through Derry into County Donegal to begin my tour of the west coast. Note that you can get the Lough ferry from Magilligan point on the causeway route but it stops for the winter season. County Donegal Malin Head - the most northern point in mainland Ireland, you can see Scotland on a good day. There are several different trails with stunning views of the rugged coastlines & cliff edges. I recommend taking the coastal walk along to the Hell Hole where you can look down into a large crevasse between the cliffs where you can listen to the water roar and the waves crash. Beside the car park is an old communication station that was imperative in connecting America & Europe during the wars. If you coming from The Causeway Coast this is a bit of a detour but worth it if you aren't tight for time. Cara Na Mara (Bunbeg Wreck) - a shipwreck on the beach also known as Bad Eddie. The beach was a welcomed leg stretch after the two hour drive from Malin Head. The ship was beached by a local fisherman named Eddie during the 1970s so he could carry out repairs and has remained there ever since. Bad Eddie now has the addition of some lovely fairy lights & a few iron hearts that I'm not sure were there during its maiden Voyage Malin Beg Beach - I stopped over here to park up to spend the night. The views from the car park down to the silver strand beach are a stunning sight. When I woke up in the morning I took a stroll down the 174 steps (be prepared for this on the way back up) to stroll along the beach and I had it all to myself. It's the perfect spot for a little dip. After speaking to some locals on my trip they informed me that it is sometimes referred to as the secret beach as nobody ever seems to go so if you are looking for something a little out the way but worth the reward then this is the place. Sliabh Liag - the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Wow - this place is seriously exceptional. You can pay to park in the little car park at the bottom of the trail and take the short walk up to the viewing point to stare in awe at the sight of the cliffs!! You can chill here and it has various refreshment vans including a fabulous coffee shop and the famous lobster rolls (be there quick as once they are done for the day they are done.) You can also hike up to the top of the cliffs which will take around 3-4 hours, there is a path but it is also advisable downloading the route. I used this route on Alltrails and don't forget you can get 30% off Alltrails+ here. County Leitrim Glencar Waterfall - a really short walk to a pretty epic waterfall. There is a big car park here with toilets and an ice cream van. On a good day I imagine the views over the Glencar lough would be amazing. The waterfall is only a 5 minute walk from the car and completely worth it - it was so much bigger than I expected. County Mayo Downpatrick Head - oh I really loved this. A short walk from the car park and you are spoilt for choice. You can go and visit the blowhole and then continue on to see Dun Briste, the incredible 350 million years old 50 metre tall sea stack. The cliffs are so high and there are no railings or anything so it can be a bit jittery as you walk near the edge. This is also where the red bull cliff diving took place a few years ago which is a completely mental thought when you see the sheer height of the cliffs. County Galway I drove here via the West Port & Clifden route which took a bit of extra time but the views were incredible especially on the second part of the drive when the mountain skyline starts to come into view. Sky Road - a scenic driving loop 16km long near Connemara National Park. If you have some spare time and fancy a wee drive then I would suggest this but if not then you're not missing out on too much by giving it a miss. Connemara National Park - 🤩 chefs kiss! I absolutely loved it here! I parked at the visitor centre hiked to the top of Diamond Hill which is the most popular hill in the park, this is a 4.4 mile loop that took just under two hours and that was stopping for loads of photos. The views of the mountains from the top are unreal. Definitely worth it. And that is where my solo Ireland road trip comes to an end. I'd had enough of driving by this point but I'm definitely not finished exploring and I hope to return next summer where I can pick up where I left off and explore the southern half of the west coast.

The O Trek from Paine Grande In January 2024 we set off for the trip of a lifetime - hiking the O Trek in Patagonia, Torres Del Paine. The whole of the trek plus the viewpoints is 136k, and we did it over 7 days and 6 nights. We spent months planning and preparing for this trip. Upon reaching Chile, our first stop on the journey was Puerto Natales where we stayed for two nights to relax after the flight and make sure we had everything ready for the trek itself - this is a great base for the Trek and there is lots of information and excursions from here. Before setting off, you will want to give yourself some prep time to pack your rucksack, book your bus ticket to the park & to make sure you have snacks and food prepared for the trails - I actually made us sandwiches for the week so we didn't need to worry about lunch every day as we would likely be out hiking. We were lucky that our hotel let us leave our luggage as we had booked to stay there again on the night we got back from the O Trek - most places will allow you to do this, some may ask for a small fee. This guide contains everything about how we did it. We know that a lot of people start at camp central, but we wanted to mix it up a bit and start at Paine Grande. We wanted to do things this way where we would start off with most of the W trek and finished with the O. Things to know before you go - You have got to book into your campsites before arriving You can get dinner at some campsites but it is not always guaranteed so be prepared Everyone must walk the same direction on the O trek You will experience every single weather condition possible so pack accordingly You should download your park tickets to your phone or print them before entering the park as there is limited signal there and you need to show your tickets There are shower at most of the campsites - I can't guarantee that they are hot. The queues can be quite long and make sure you take shower shoes Wi-fi is available at most camps - some camps are paid and some are free. Again it is not guaranteed to be any good. A list of the campsites we stayed at - The total cost of our park entrance fees and campsite bookings for the trip was - $823/£652. I have numbered and highlighted the camps we stayed at in order in red on the map just for your information , although there are some other camps you can book into along the way to break down the longer days. An example of the snacks available at camp stores You absolutely must book all your campsites before arrival or they wont let you in the park. We used Torres Hike to do this as it made it simpler to book all the different campsites without going into the different companies booking systems. We thought we booked pretty far in advance but it turns out we were actually late as there were only certain options available at some sites. We had planned to rent tents at each of the campsites there, but at some sites they only had premium left so we had to take that - turns out that was actually quite lovely and they were tent boxes in the trees. If we were to do it again I'd probably try to book all premium for the comfort an ease at the end of the day. If you prefer, and are a bit more sociable than us, there are also Refugio's at most stops that you can book into. Now, there are supposed to some mini markets and groceries on some of the camps but I'd use that term loosely and wouldn't rely on them too much as some were pretty limited, great for grabbing biscuits and snacks but very limited on things you could make a substantial meal from. The pictures are from one of the more well stocked shops and as you can see you would still be rather limited. The further you got from the W trek the harder it got to source food from the shops. But, thankfully if you plan ahead all of the campsites have dining facilities where they will feed you your dinner - we didn't book ahead for any of these but we ended up doing some dinners last minute as it actually was pretty good value and a good feed. Refugio & Camp Cuernos - premium tent, groceries, WiFi, showers, food available if you book ahead Torres Central & North - premium tent, snacks only from shop, restaurant here - booked in for dinner and 3 course, well fed. Good vibes here Camp Serron - premium tent, possible puma sightings around this camp. There is supposed to be a minimarket here? We could not find it Refugio & Camping Dickson - standard tent, groceries here but very limited Camp Los Perros - standard tent. There really is nothing here, if you want dinner you must book it in advance. They can't even give you water to cook noodles. Everyone MUST leave the campsite by 6am Refugio & Campsite Grey - standard tent, restaurant, groceries & activities. Very well equipped & much busier as you are back on the W. * When it says supermarket & groceries on the camp information - take that lightly as it is very limited, not always stocked and tends to be mainly noodles or sometimes tinned fish. I'd definitely recommend trying to prepare as much as you can before entering the park and using this as a back up not a reliance. Useful maps & routes (for 30% off Alltrails+ click here) Full O Trek & W Trek Paine Grande to Cuernos (including trek to Mirador Britanico) Cuernos to Torres Central Torres Central to Seron Seron to Dickson Dickson to Los Perros Los Perros to Grey - there are two sections to this as people often stop at the earlier camp Part 1 - Los Perros to Camp Paso Part 2 - Camp Paso to Grey Grey to Paine Grande Base Las Torres (towers for sunrise) Day 1 – Puerto Natales to Camp Cuernos Total Distance – 25k Paine Grande to Cuernos - 14.5k 5h Hike to Mirador Britanico and back 10k - bus from Puerto Natales to Pudeto - ferry across the lake into the park to Paine Grande (ticket bought on boat) - viewpoints Frances & Britanico We set off from our hotel Puerto Natales at 6am to ensure we had plenty time to reach the bus station and be on board the bus by 7am. The bus initially stops at Amargo gate where you must get off to show your park documents - I'd recommend downloading them to your phone ahead of this as there is no signal here and intermittent wi-fi. After this the journey continues on to Pudeto, soon the breath-taking mountain landscape will come into view. As we waited to board the ferry we grabbed some lunch from the café there and stood admiring the lake and in awe of the mountains that await us. One lesson I have learned from this trip is that the ferries very much run to their own time schedule. We entered the park and arrived at Camp Grande at around 11.30am and immediately set off for our first point of the day - camp Italiano. It may have been because of the excitement but we made it here in only 2 hours. From this point, you can opt to hike up to the Mirador Britanico, which I would definitely recommend as the view is incredible. To allow us to move more efficiently we left our bags at Italiano at the old camp base. As you ascend through Valle Frances, you are treated to incredible views and get your first glimpse of a glacier upon the mountains. We stopped to admire this for a while, wondering if any of the ice would break off and crash to the ground. By the time we reached camp Cuernos, we had hiked 16 miles, and it was starting to take its toll, feeling much longer due to carrying such big bags. We realised that this was an ambitious first day, but we knew our fitness and just wanted to push on. Some people choose to stay at Frances to shorten the journey. When we booked our camping, only the premium tents were available - these were like large tent boxes nestled amongst the woods, which turned out to be a blessing because the wind this night was fierce. It felt much safer to be in a sturdy tent sheltered by the trees than out in the open. The next morning, we saw someone who's tent had been destroyed by the winds. Overall an exciting and action packed first day. Day 2 – Camp Cuernos to Torres Central 11.6k – 4.5h After a long day yesterday we treated ourselves this morning and slept in a bit, knowing we had a shorter day of hiking ahead of us. We then walked on to Torres Central. It was a really hot day today, but it was a pretty short trail. We met some friendly Americans on the trail who were coming to the end of their trek, it was great to hear all their stories and tips. Along the trail there were cool little rope bridges enabling you to cross the rivers. Upon reaching Torres Central, we found it much livelier than the previous camp. This seems to be the main starting and ending point for the W trek and the point of entry for most day trips into the park. We enjoyed lunch in the sunshine at the restaurant - quesadillas and chips instead of the squashed sandwiches in our bag. There were stunning views of Monte Almirante Nieto from there, a stunning mountain that we actually looked into climbing whilst we were there, but the wind had other plans. The restaurant here had really good tunes playing and it was good vibes, so we naturally ended up drinking pisco sours in the sun. We decided to book in for dinner there, which was delicious – pumpkin soup, chicken and quinoa & a white chocolate mousse for dessert. Day 3 - Central Torres to Seron & Mirador Las Torres for sunrise Central to Seron 13k - 4 hours Base Las Torres 20k - 8 hours Total for the day - 33k We set our alarm to wake up in the middle of the night and set off to catch the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres. The path up was pretty straightforward in the dark, but make sure you have a good head torch with you as there are a few bits through the trees. During the last push to the view point, we somehow managed to stray from the path (which was really obvious - I blame the tiredness) and ended up scrambling up the rocks, which was actually quite fun. If you time it right, the mountain's face glows orange in the first light of the day - this was remarkable witness. We were certainly lucky because as soon as the sunrise show was over, the clouds rolled in and it rained for the rest of the day. I felt really sorry for the people coming up after us, as it was dull and rainy, and there probably weren't very good views at the top. After returning to camp, we took a quick nap before continuing on to our next destination - our campsite at Seron. Just as we were leaving Torres Central, two pumas crossed right in front of our path, we were incredibly lucky to witness such magnificent creatures up close. The hike to Seron was quite soggy and uneventful due to the constant rain. This was our first experience of the O Trek, and became noticeable as there were significantly fewer people around. Our tent at Camp Seron was up a hill, which gave us stunning views. We were able to have dinner here too in the small dining room - I actually really enjoyed the dinners as it gave you a chance to chat to other people who were doing the same route as you. Day 4 - Seron to Dickson 18k – 6 hours This hike offered my favourite views on the trail so far (excluding the viewpoint excursions). Upon reaching the pass, you can see the mountainous landscape directly ahead. It was extremely windy, and I actually did see a few people get blown over. You must do a check in with the park guards halfway along the route, where they will review your paperwork. The second part of the hike is pretty flat, with boardwalks leading you over the wet boggy areas. After one final push up onto the hillside, you can spot your campsite in the distance - but the descent to get there is pretty steep. From the camp, if you want to explore a bit more, you can set out to find the gravel beach at the back of the camp, which offers stunning views of the alpine water and mountains. This was our first night sleeping on the ground in a tent, and it was much colder than I had anticipated, so I ended up renting a thick sleeping mat from the reception. Day 5 - Dickson to Los Peros 11.8k – 4.5h When we awoke at Camp Dickson, we were fortunate to witness the mountain rescue helicopter coming in to land at our camp for some training - an exhilarating start the day. This section of the route was a pleasant, gentle walk through a woodland area. On the approach to the next campsite, you'll see an alpine lake with a glacier flowing into it - this was the perfect place to stop for a rest. I honestly wouldn't hurry to reach this camp, as there's not much to see or do. The camping area is quite cramped and hidden away in the woods. You can have dinner here, but nothing else, and if you haven't booked it in advance then you're out of luck - speaking from experience. Although we didn't actually want dinner, just some hot water to make our noodles we had bought from the previous camp, but even that was a challenge. We managed to charm the woman at the ranger hut into popping the kettle on for us and helping us out - legend! Everyone HAD to leave camp by 6am to cross the John Garner pass, so we turned in for an early night. We didn't sleep very well as it was really quite windy in the woods but we got enough rest to prepare us for the big day ahead the following day. Day 6 - Los Peros to Grey 15k – 11 hours John Garner Pass Suspension bridges x 3 First views of the Glacier I awoke feeling quite drowsy from a rubbish sleep due to the wind and the noise from others getting ready to leave camp for the day. We set off up the mountain at a good pace, passing many hikers who had started before us. We knew it would be a pretty long day; although the distance wasn't great there was a steep ascent and descent. The climb to the top of Garners Pass wasn't too difficult; we managed in good time. Once you reach the top, you get your first glimpse of Glacier Grey, which was magnificent. I've been fortunate enough to see a glacier before but not one this impressive. It remained in view for the rest of the journey, making the descent more enjoyable. If you looked closely, you could see tiny figures walking on it - little did we know that we would be those people the next day. There are also three suspension bridges to cross on the way to Camp Grey. Some of these are pretty daunting as they are very high off the ground, crossing deep ravines, and by early afternoon, the wind picks up significantly causing them to sway slightly - which can be quite frightening. Upon reaching Camp Grey, you have re-joined the W trail, so things begin to get much livelier again and there are more facilities. We sniffed out an activities centre nearby to check if it was possible to kayak to the glacier the following morning. This wasn't available due to the weather but we were offered ice trekking on the glacier instead. We were lucky to snag a last minute space, but I would definitely recommend booking to ensure you get the chance. We also went on a bit of a side quest after reaching the camp to visit the bay on Lago Grey, where you could see the icebergs that had broken off from the glacier up close; some of these were huge. Day 7 - Camp Grey to Paine Grande 11k – 3.5 hours The end of the O Trek Big foot excursions ice trek on the glacier - 5 hours £170/ $225 Last ferry back to Podeto Bus return to Puerto Natales - 7pm On our final day of the O Trek, I felt quite sad it was coming to an end, though my body was looking forward to a proper shower and comfortable bed. We got up early to hike on the glacier with Big Foot Excursions. The tour group provided us with crampons for safely walking on the ice, and we were able to leave out backpacks at their office, taking only what was necessary for the morning. This adventure lasted about three hours and was incredible. We took a boat to the excursion's starting point, which was thrilling because there was always the possibility that huge chunks of ice could break free from the glacier and crash into the water creating massive waves. During the trek, we walked across the glacier, explored inside an ice cave, and peered over the edge into one of the crevasses. This was a thrilling experience and a great way to fill our last morning here. The second half on the day and the trek to Paine Grande was longer than anticipated and so so windy. I don't think I've ever been anywhere in my life that is as windy as Patagonia and I live in Scotland so that's saying something. You have great views of Lago Grey on the walk. We had some downtime time to chill at the restaurant/bar at Paine Grande, where we indulged in one too many pisco sours to celebrate our accomplishments (we celebrated with these quite frequently during the trek as well). The ferry to return back to Pudeto was late (surprise surprise) and very crowded. The bus journey back felt long as we were tired from the thrilling days in the park. As soon as we reached Puerto Natales we headed straight to the nearest bar to eat our own body weight in food and beers - it was well deserved. Just a little windy We did it! We completed the O Trek. What an incredible journey overall in the most beautiful part of the world. If you ever get the chance to embark on this wonderful trip then you absolutely should do it! If you have any questions or comments leave them below - I hope you have enjoyed reading about our version of the O Trek. Feel free to read more about my South American Adventures here. Me feeling small against Patagonia's incredible mountains